3D printing technology is advancing by leaps and bounds. One moment we are discussing making small toys to entertain children, and the next second we see news that a 3D printer has built a concrete building that can withstand an 8-magnitude earthquake. Given time, "3D printing a 3D printer" also seems possible.

But leaving prospects aside, what hobbyists and makers care more about are still desktop 3D printers — what types there are, how fast they print, and how much they cost. If you like getting to the bottom of things, or ever tried DIYing a 3D printer before, you must also have pondered this question: how do they move?

XYZ, I3 and CoreXY are currently the most popular styles of desktop 3D printers. This is how they move: the machine has one or several axes in the X, Y and Z directions of the 3D coordinate system. One end of each axis is equipped with a motor to provide power. Synchronous belts or leadscrews then convert the motor's rotation into linear motion along the X, Y and Z directions. Finally, with the linear guide rail systems in the 3 directions, the machine can position the nozzle at any point in the 3D space formed by the axes, extrude the filament, and create a 3D object.

Linear guide rail system on Snapmaker Artisan

Why are guide systems important?

The guide systems mainly serves 3 purposes during printing:

• Precision: Realize tight tolerance, prevent wobble, and ensure the print head or heated bed installed on the guides moves linearly along the predetermined direction;
• Smoothness: Reduce friction with bearings or rollers, and contribute to smoother motion;
• Reliability: Guiding structures with excellent rigidity can improve machine reliability and contribute to more consistent prints over time.

The variety of guide systems

In general, the guide systems used on 3D printers include:

• Wheels & profiles
• Linear rods & bearings
• Linear rails
• Embedded linear rails (introduced by Snapmaker)

Wheels & profiles

Source: Kywoo3D

Among all the guides, the combination of wheels and profiles is probably the most common and cost-effective. There are typically 3 to 4 rollers running along the V- or T-shaped groove of the profile to guide the movements.

POM wheels

Source: Printer Mods

The outer ring of the wheels is most commonly made of POM (Polyformaldehyde), and the inner ring is made up of steel and ball bearings. POM has high strength, low deformation, and excellent abrasion resistance, making it especially suitable for making printer wheels. With proper use, POM rollers can last hundreds of hours. Some manufacturers also use PC (Polycarbonate) to make wheels, which have even higher strength and longer life, though at a slightly higher price.

PC wheels

Source: I3D Service

To ensure linear motion, the wheels should grip the profiles properly. Too loose and vibration can occur at high speeds. Too tight will increase wear — accumulated debris can pile up between the wheels and rails, causing bumpy or jittery motion. So users need to adjust the wheel tightness based on how the printer works, clean debris, and replace wheels when necessary. Compared to other guides, the wheel and profile combo requires more frequent maintenance.

Additionally, plastics have lower rigidity than metals. Wheel deformation during motion is hard to avoid, so printers using wheels generally have lower precision compared to those with steel guides.

V-slot profile

Source: 3D Printing Store

The profiles commonly used on 3D printers are available in two types: V-slot profiles and T-slot profiles. As the names suggest, the main difference between them is the cross-sectional shape. Different profiles pair with different wheels to achieve good guiding effects.

Since the profiles are customizable, inexpensive, and with sufficient performance, the combination of wheels and profiles is the top choice for many DIY 3D printer builds.

Advantages

• Good guiding performance, cheap and useful;
• Abundant options, widely available;
• Easy to install, use, and modify;

Disadvantages

• Lower precision;
• More prone to vibration;
• Requires more frequent maintenance.

Linear rods & bearings

The limitations of wheel and profile guides have led DIYers and manufacturers to shift more attention to another combination with superior precision and stability — linear rods and bearings. In the past few years, rod and bearing guides have become almost synonymous with guide systems for 3D printers. At least 2 rods and 2 bearings are needed for each axis of the printer. The bearings either wrap or cling to the rods, while connecting to carriages mounted with an extruder or heated bed, to guide the linear motion.

Linear rods with linear bearings

Source: Amazon

A linear rod, aka smooth rod, is simply a cylindrical steel rod, available in various sizes — 3D printers typically use 8mm diameter ones. Rods can be machined to high dimensional accuracy with very smooth surfaces. Paired with ball bearings, properly assembled rods can achieve fairly good linear motions.

And yes there are also drawbacks of being smooth. When used for guidance, the rods need to be fixed at both ends with metal clamps. Also, bearings can not only move linearly but also rotate 360° around the cylinders. That's why they need to be attached to bearings on another parallel rod to let the extruder or heated bed move linearly. Parallelism between two rods can be challenging, especially for DIYers.

So, using shaft guides means higher precision and stability on one hand, but also larger footprint and weight, along with higher assembly difficulty on the other.

Snapmaker 2.0 Linear Module sectional view (linear rods in dark grey; U-groove bearings in yellow)

The bearings used with rods are mainly U-groove bearings and linear bearings made entirely of steel. U-groove bearings resemble wheels that can roll along the rods. Linear bearings have a cylindrical sleeve on the outside, with several rows of balls on the inside that can cycle along the shaft. Both can accomplish smooth guidance with minimal friction.

Rods and bearings are long lasting, only requiring occasional cleaning of buildup on the rods and lubricating the bearings. If the rods are enclosed in a housing instead of acting as the frame (e.g. Snapmaker 2.0's Linear Modules), disassembling the housing and lubricating the bearings is straightforward. However, replacing worn out bearings after prolonged use can be slightly tricky.

Advantages

• Excellent guiding performance, high precision, moderate cost;
• Abundant options, widely available;
• Low maintenance frequency;

Disadvantages

• Larger footprint and weight when enclosed;
• Parallelism can be a problem;
• Replacing bearings can be tricky.

Linear rails

Linear rail, also referred to as linear guide, has been trending in recent years. The steel rail part has a track on each side, and the sliders nested on it contain 2 sets of ball bearings that can cycle along the tracks. In addition to industrial 3D printers, more and more desktop manufacturers are also using linear rails in their high-end product lines, such as Snapmaker's J1.

Source: Adafruit

Although both are made of steel, when it comes to actual work, linear rails are less susceptible to bending and vibration compared to rods. This is mainly attributed to their unique mounting method. Rods are only fixed at both ends, while linear rails have mounting holes at regular intervals on the surface, allowing them to be tightly secured to the housing or other support structures.

This ensures stable linear motion and improves print quality on one hand, and increases the speed limit by preventing excessive shaking at high speeds on the other. This is one of the reasons J1 can achieve high-speed printing.

Snapmaker J1 IDEX 3D printer with linear rails

During assembly, linear rails can guide a single axis without pairing, saving space and weight to make the machine more lightweight and compact. There is also no need to worry about rail parallelism.

Source: Birailmotors

It all sounds great, but what's the catch? The price. Rough calculations show that while the sliders for linear rails have similar prices to the bearings for rods, the rails themselves cost about 2.5 – 4 times that of a pair of rods at equivalent lengths. In comparison, rods are cheap and good enough. Weighing the extra cost against performance gains, most DIYers would still opt for rods and bearings.

For maintenance, linear rails are similar to the former, requiring regular lubrication of the bearings. Exposed rails also need occasional cleaning.

Advantages

• Very high precision;
• Supports high-speed printing;
• Small footprint, convenient to use;

Disadvantages

• Cannot serve as support structures, needs to be installed on profiles, etc.;
• Expensive.

Embedded linear rails

Instead of using the above guides directly, some manufacturers, for the purpose of advancing technical capabilities or catering to specific products, are also exploring better solutions. Embedded linear rails are what Snapmaker chose for its Artisan model.

Snapmaker Artisan with embedded linear rails

The core strengths of linear rails lie in the high rigidity of the steel rails and the precise, smooth motion enabled by the ball bearings. These advantages are preserved in embedded linear rails.

When making the Linear Modules, Snapmaker embeds two steel strips into the inner walls of the aluminum alloy housing, then CNC grinds the steel precisely into rails with micron-level machining accuracy. Also, with the wider embedded rails, rigidity is further improved without increasing weight, better suiting high-power CNC operations — after all, Artisan is a 3-in-1 product, and ordinary 3D printers do not require such extreme rigidity.

Compared to directly mounting linear rails on the surface of extrusions, embedding the steel rails inside the linear modules prevents dust buildup on the rails, reducing maintenance frequency. It also makes the modules more lightweight and compact, so that an expensive machine does not end up looking like a DIY enthusiast's project. However, embedding linear rails does pose considerable manufacturing challenges for the producer, with no cost advantage over normal linear rails.

Advantages

• Same as linear rails: very high precision, supports high-speed printing, small footprint;
• Rail rigidity further improved;
• Lower maintenance frequency with rails enclosed;

Disadvantages

• Expensive;
• Not suitable for DIY.

Summary

	Linear rails	Linear rods & bearings	Wheels & profiles	Embedded linear rails
Precision	⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐
Rigidity	⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Lifespan	⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐
Ease of use (in DIY)	⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐	Can not be used for DIY
Maintenence frequency	😫	😫	😫😫	😫
Maintenance difficulty	😫	😫😫	😫	😫
Cost	💰💰💰	💰💰	💰	💰💰💰

Characteristics of TPU filament

TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) is a soft resin that is resistant to bending, tension, and friction. And

it also has excellent chemical resistance. TPU is one of the most commonly used materials in 3D printers, because it can be used to make parts with rubber-like elasticity and impact resistance.

Advantages

• It is relatively inexpensive, easy to handle, and can produce parts with softness that cannot be obtained by the SLA printing method.
• Adhesion between layers is strong. By adjusting the wall thickness and infill, it is possible to make parts with various characteristics.
• Depending on the application, you can make soft parts like rubber tires or strong, unbreakable parts like gaskets and seals.

Disadvantages

• TPU is a material that easily absorbs moisture. Moisture absorption can cause bubbles or poor flow during printing, which can have a negative impact on products. Therefore, it requires more attention to storage and drying than other materials. For more information, check out this article: 3D Printing Filament Storage and Drying: Why and How.
• As explained in the next section, printing is technically more difficult than PLA. Supports are difficult to peel off, so it is necessary to create shapes that require as little support as possible.
• Like PLA, heat resistance is not good, so care should be taken.

Why is printing with TPU so difficult?

Differences in difficulty between different types of extruders

Proper pressure must be applied from the extruder to feed the filament out of the nozzle.

Bowden extruder used in some 3D printers has the advantage of having a small and lightweight head. But the long distance from the extruder to the nozzle makes it difficult to extrude TPU filament, which is soft and cannot be tensioned. Therefore, it is challenging to print TPU on a Borden-type 3D printer. Generally, higher temperatures, slower speeds, and avoidance of retraction are used.

The direct extruder used by Snapmaker allows the extruder and nozzle to be in close proximity to each other, allowing the proper pressure to be applied to even the softest TPU filaments. As a result, temperature and speed settings can be set to fit TPU, and retraction can be performed to enhance the quality of products. But still, printing with TPU is not easy.

Difficulties arising from the wide variation of TPU filaments

Like other filaments, TPU filaments come in a variety of types. In particular, Shore hardness is a characteristic measure of TPU. Generally, a smaller Shore hardness indicates softer material and a larger Shore hardness indicates harder material.

Even with the similar TPU materials, it is more difficult to print well than generic PLA because settings must be adjusted over the characteristics of the filament.

Troubles and solutions when using Snapmaker

Cannot extrude

Snapmaker direct extruder uses a combination of a single gear and opposite roller to extrude the filament. Soft TPU may bend in Snapmaker extruder and cannot be extruded properly, causing filament jamming.

• Lower the Printing Speed and Retraction Speed to increase the flow.
• It is recommended to use Polymaker TPU95-HF for TPU printing due to its high stiffness. 
• Carbon residue in the inner wall of the nozzle can lead to greater resistance. You can change the nozzle regularly.

Depending on the types of TPU filaments, Snapmaker may not be able to solve the problem. If the problem persists, please refer to the Snapmaker forum. You may find solutions from other users.

Deformation during printing

The flexibility of TPU allows for deformation during modeling due to the thin-walled structure of the structure and its own weight.

• It is recommended to modify the structure or add infill.
• Increasing the flow rate may prevent deformation. In this case, the molding object will be slightly larger.

Ragged object

Insufficient amount of extrusion tends to cause this problem. As well, too much or too fast retraction can cause a ragged object due to bubbles.

• Increase the extrusion flow. 
• Slow down the printing speed to secure the amount of extrusion per unit time.
• Reduce retraction distance and speed.

Note: Although it makes the product slightly stiffer, use the infill pattern gyroid for hollow structures to reduce the possibility of retraction.

Stringing

Stringing is one of the most common problems that occur when printing with TPU. It is difficult to completely avoid it due to its characteristics, but there are ways to reduce it as much as possible.

• Slightly decrease printing temperature.
• Accelerate travel speed.
• Enable Retract at Layer Change option.

Note: Increase retraction distance and decrease retraction speed are common answers, but they are inapplicable to Snapmaker due to mechanical differences, which would increase the possibility of filament jamming.

Unable to detach from the build plate

TPU has strong adhesion to the heated build plate. Depending on the print settings, it may be difficult to peel off the object from the print sheet.

• Use the Z offset to move the nozzle an extra distance (about +0.1 mm) from the build plate.
• Detach objects while the build plate is still heated with Pallet Knife. Be careful not to touch the hot surface of the build plate.
• Decrease initial build plate temperature.
• Use duct tape or masking tape to the print sheet.

Note: Generally speaking, a new print sheet provides stronger adhesion.

Snapmaker Luban settings

Here are some specific settings for Snapmaker Luban to solve the above problems.

Note: It is recommended to use Polymaker TPU95-HF for TPU printing.

Material settings

• Printing Temprature: 225℃
• Fan: ON
• Build Plate Temperature: 50-60℃
• Extrusion Flow: >120%
• Retraction Distance: 2.5mm
• Retraction Speed: 15mm/s 

Printing settings

• Layer Height: 0.1-0.3
• Initial Layer Height: >0.25
• Initial Layer Line Width: 150%
• Shell Thickness: >0.8
• Infil Pattern: Gyroid
• Printing Speed: <25mm/s
• Travel Speed: >70mm/s

Note: Typical settings can be downloaded here. Use these .json files on Snapmaker Luban. Click on the gear icon at the upper right, then click on the import icon in the bottom left corner of the settings. Check the image below.

Printing samples

Depending on your ideas, TPU has unlimited possibilities. Please enjoy Make Something Wonderful!

Crawler

Toy Parts

Fitted Lampshades

Flexible Toolbox             Speaker Sealing

Introduction

For many, the ability to print out nearly any object one could imagine from the comfort of their home is equal parts astonishing to inspiring. Now imagine if you could transform those relatively robust plastic creations into rigid long-lasting masterpieces. Well, I’m here to tell you that the process is surprisingly easy, and I’ll help guide you along every step of the way. Let’s get right into it, starting with the process overview, which details the key aspects of converting plastic 3D printed components into their concrete counterparts.

CAD Modeling: Turning the concept of your project into a three-dimensional object.

3D Printing: Converting the STL file into a tangible part, via additive manufacturing. 

Silicone Molding: Casting a negative silicone mold of the 3D printed parts.

Concrete Casting: Filling the negative silicone mold with concrete. 

Decorating: Arranging modular planters and adding decorative plants and materials.

How to Video

How to Video: https://youtu.be/40XSeIGZyiU

Concrete Planters

Project Introduction

When I started this project, I wanted to design a modular planter that was able to be quickly configured into different arrangements. The design would have to be relatively minimalistic to ensure ease of 3D printing, silicon molding, and concrete casting. In addition to these design constraints, I wanted certain components to be stackable, adding another level of modularity to the system. 

Design Considerations

When I started the design of this project I wanted to have the ability to quickly rearrange the planters and pavers to create different layouts. I achieved this modularity by sub-dividing the base shape which was an elongated hexagon into 3 unique shapes. The main shape is a pentagon, which has three different configurations, depending on the application of that component. For example, if you wanted to create a vertical stack up, you would start with a base planter and then add as many hollow planters as you would like. Because these shapes are derived from the base elongated hexagon, they can be added in a repeating pattern to create new and unique shapes.

Figure 1.0: Base Shape constructed using four hexagon pavers.

Figure 1.1: Two examples of the different configurations that are possible with the modular components.

Bill of Materials

• PLA Filament
• Mold Star 30 Silicone
• Quikcrete Mix
• Potting Soil
• Decorative Filler Rocks
• Decorative Moss
• Succulents
• Hot Glue Gun
• 3D Printer
• 330-Grit Sandpaper
• 220-Grit Sandpaper
• Plastic Sheet
• Mixing Bowl
• Mixing Stick
  

CAD Modeling

The first step is turning the concept of your project into a three-dimensional version, which will allow us to export as an STL. This STL can later be processed by the slicing software, and we will get into that in the next step. 

Slicing and 3D Printing

Before we can begin printing, we need to first convert our STL file into G Code. This is carried out by the software Snapmaker Luban, which “slices” the models into thin layers and creates tool paths in the form of G Code, allowing the printer to interpret the data and turn the compilation of individual layers into a printable part. For a more detailed explanation of slicing and G Code, check out this article: Slicing and G Code: The Bridge Between 3D Model and 3D Printer. 

Figure 1.2: Slicing the hollow planter component in software Snapmaker Luban.

Post Processing

Once the printing process is completed, we can begin post-processing the components. Due to the geometry, most of the parts don’t need support material during printing and therefore most of the surfaces on the print are smooth. The only exception to this was the hollow planter, which could be printed in an orientation that would allow for no support material. However, I wanted the parts all to be oriented the same to ensure the fillet on the top surfaces was consistent. I started by sanding the parts using 220 grit sandpaper, this removed any major surface blemishes and gave the parts a relatively smooth finish. From there I applied filler primer to all the parts and let them dry. The filler primer did an excellent job filling in any small voids or gaps between layer lines. From there I sanded the parts once again, this time using 330 grit sandpaper, resulting in an almost perfectly smooth surface finish. Although sometimes tedious post-processing these parts is a key step in this project to ensure a high-quality finished product. Since the silicon mold will capture any small blemishes in the part, which will in turn be reflected in the concrete casted parts. 

Figure 1.3: Sanding filler primed hexagon paver with 330 grit sandpaper.

Mold Setup

Since I used a trial bottle of Mold Star 30 silicone I had to optimize the shape of the mold shell. I started by arranging the components I planned to cast in CAD and then designed the shell around them. Making sure to leave enough space between components to ensure the silicon mold hard rigid enough walls to support the concrete during curing. The mold shell was also 3D printed although, I didn’t post-process it at all since the surface finish on the perimeter of the silicone mold wasn’t important. The next step was to hot glue the post-processed prints to a base, I used a plastic sheet from an old picture frame. Then I placed the mold shell around those components and hot glued it as well. It’s important to make sure there are no gaps between the mold shell and the base, otherwise, the silicone will slowly leak out since it’s not very viscous. I didn’t use any mold release spray for this project, but you could use some if you wanted to ensure easy removal of the 3D-printed parts once the silicone cured. In my case, I was able to remove the parts with minimal work even without any release spray. 

Figure 1.4: All components and mold shell layed out and hot glued to plastic base.

Mixing Silicone

There were a few reasons I chose Mold Star 30 silicone for this project. The primary reason was that this specific silicone rubber doesn’t require a vacuum for degassing and has a low viscosity, which allows it to easily flow into small areas. To prep, the platinum silicones are mixed 1A:1B by volume, meaning no scale is necessary. I chose to pour each bottle into a common container and mixed them until a homogenous solution was achieved. Once the silicone was ready to be poured I slowly began filling the Mold shell, making sure to fill in all the little channels between the components and the shell. The last step in the silicone molding process was to agitate the silicone. This is a very important step, which removes any trapped oxygen bubbles within the silicone. If bubbles aren’t properly evacuated from the silicone, it will likely impact the surface finish on your final concrete parts once you cast the silicone mold. This could have been avoided had I used a vacuum chamber to degas the silicone, although I didn’t have one at my disposal. In the end, the features that were generated in the concrete parts due to residual trapped air bubbles ended up being a surface feature I came to appreciate and enjoy in the parts.   

Figure 1.5: Filling the mold shell with Mold Star 30 silicone. 

Component Removal

I started the component removal process by pealing away the flexible plastic base followed by pressing the silicone through the mold shell, leaving just the silicone mold with the entrapped 3D printed parts. From there it was as simple as pressing the 3D printed parts out since most parts were glued directly to the plastic base. Except for one part, which required me to add relief cuts to the silicon mold. These cuts would prove to be extremely useful once it came time to remove the concrete cast parts.

Figure 1.6: Silicone mold, once all 3D printed parts have been successfully removed.

Mixing Concrete

There is an expansive list of potential concrete mixes one could use for a casting operation like this. I opted for the Quikcrete sand/topping mix since the powder was relatively fine and I was able to easily source it from my local HomeDepot. The first step in mixing the concrete was to pour an appropriate amount of concrete powder into a mixing bowl, then added water. The general rule of thumb is to get the concrete to a consistency similar to that of oatmeal. You want the concrete to be wet enough to flow into the silicone mold nicely, but not too wet. When concrete is mixed with too much water it dries weaker, overly porous, and is more prone to cracking. 

Figure 1.7: Concrete mixing process, just before adding water and stirring the mixture.

Concrete Casting

When casting the silicone mold with concrete, it’s important to pour slowly. This helps to limit the number of air bubbles that are trapped within the mold. To aid in the evacuation of trapped air, I once again agitated the silicone mold by vibrating it. This brought the vast majority of air bubbles to the surface, although there were still some trapped lingering bubbles. These air pockets ended up giving a unique surface finish on the final parts and became something I liked.    

Figure 1.8: Carefully filling the silicone mold with the concrete mixture.

Post Processing

Once the concrete had dried completely I removed the parts from the silicone mold. The next step was to sand down the small amount of “flash” on the bottom surface of the parts. This is caused by the silicone mold not being filled all the way with concrete. When this happens the concrete experiences capillary action, which causes the concrete to stick and rise on the perimeters of the mold. Additionally, I sanded a few regions on the hollow planter parts to ensure they would have a slip fit with other components when stacked.   

Figure 1.9: Sanding concrete hollow planter with 220 grit sandpaper block.

Decorating

With our post-processed components completed, it's time for the fun part. I started by laying out an arrangement that I liked. From there I decided which areas would have plants and soil, and the areas which would only have rocks and moss. The stack-ups of the hollow planters were filled with soil, to help provide nutrients for the succulents I planted within them. As a finishing touch, I added some small rocks around the succulents and filled a few other areas with rocks and moss. I opted for a succulent and moss-themed design, but there are many other styles one could choose. For example, a desert-themed planter with cactus and sand.  

Figure 2.0: Adding small river rocks to cover the soil surrounding the succulents.

Finished Product

Alternate Applications

The process of turning 3D printed parts into a silicone mold and then using it to cast in another material could be applied to a wide range of projects. Although the complexity of these 3D printed parts is somewhat limited, there are design choices that can be made to overcome these limitations. Additionally, the material you choose to cast with can vary as well, for example, you could replicate this project but use chocolate instead of concrete. The possibilities are nearly endless. If you’re interested in trying out this manufacturing process but aren’t sure where to start, here are some project ideas to get you started:  

• Concrete Vases
• Desk Organizers
• Concrete Coasters
• Candle Holders
• Phone Stands
• Business Card Holder
  

Conclusion

At first glance, it probably seemed like a daunting task to produce a consumer-quality concrete component from a few 3D printed parts and some silicone. But once the manufacturing process is broken down into its fundamental steps, it becomes a much easier project to comprehend. Hopefully, as you’ve progressed through this article you’ve developed a better understanding of how to turn 3D printed parts into concrete masterpieces and found some inspiration for your own DIY projects along the way.

Now go out there and Make Something Wonderful！

Hello, Maker!

As known to all, initial layer adhesion is critical for FFF 3D printing, on which we would spend a lot of effort, such as tuning the slicing parameters or using various tools. That’s also why Snapmaker specially designed a detail-rich print sheet to minimize the troubles. Now, let’s take a look at this product and learn some basic daily maintenance and cleaning skills.

Design & Material

The print sheet of the Snapmaker 2.0 machines consists of two parts: the steel plate and surface stickers on both sides.

The steel plate is made of carbon steel with high toughness and strength. Though the print sheet can be bent slightly, it will immediately return to its original flatness once the force is stopped, thus ensuring that the entire printing platform can always be kept flat during printing. At the same time, its magnetic design also provides great convenience for removing prints and replacing the print sheet.

Although not fixed with screws, the strong magnetic attraction between the print sheet and the heated bed helps them stick firmly together. Without intended human force (which must be very strong, actually), the print sheet will not move during printing.

The sticker of the print sheet is made of polymer materials, of which the surface is specially processed to further improve the adhesion effect of the initial layer. Though named as “sticker”, it is highly flame-retardant, oxidation-resistant, as well as heat-resistant. 

Thanks to its material properties, the print sheet sticker can effectively accelerate the cooling process of the extruded filament when the initial layer is printed, making it adhere to the print sheet faster and better, and also reducing the possibility of wrapping. Internal tests have shown that our specially designed sticker can effectively improve the initial layer adhesion of a wider variety of filaments, compared with the Polyetherimide (PEI) stickers or coatings used in many other printing platforms.

Moreover, the print sheet of Snapmaker 2.0 has stickers on both sides. This not only ensures the flatness of the steel plate when heated, but also increases the utilization of the print sheet. You can switch the front and back sides at will to use, thus reducing the frequency of replacement.

How to Avoid Print Sheet “Injuries“

Traces or marks may be left on the print sheet due to various reasons over repetitive use. If not handled in time, they can affect the printing quality. For example, filament residues on the print sheet may negatively impact the initial layer adhesion in the next printing. What’s more, if filaments of different colors are used over two successive printings, the bottom of the latter print is likely to be branded with an undesirable “gift” from the former print, as shown below.

Also, dented traces pressed out by the nozzle on the print sheet may leave some “3D tattoo” on your future prints.

Some of these traces are reversible and can be erased by later cleaning, while others are permanent. Therefore, before we proceed to cleaning methods, let’s go over some preventive measures and precautions that can help you avoid such “injuries” to the print sheet.

1. Don’t set the Z height too low.
   Many Makers, including myself, tend to set the Z height as low as possible during the heated bed leveling or after the printing starts, so as to reduce potential problems that can happen to the initial layer adhesion. However, the nozzle can easily leave dents on the print sheet in doing so. At the same time, the extruding of filament may be hindered or even stopped if the nozzle is too close to the print sheet, which could give rise to discontinuous lines, uneven surfaces of the printed object, or even nozzle jams. A failed printing process can be restarted, a jammed nozzle can be cleaned, but the dent left on the print sheet is irreversible. What’s more, an excessively low Z height may cause the filament to stick too much to the print sheet, bringing about more troubles in the cleaning process afterward.
   
   
   
   
2. Don't take out or elevate the print sheet when the machine is still working.
   Sometimes when the printing of the initial layer is not going well and thus you decide to remove the filament and start over, you might just take out the print sheet directly without pausing the machine. In this case, the distance between the nozzle and the print sheet will suddenly decrease, and the nozzle may leave dents or traces on the print sheet as a result.
   
   
3. Use masking tapes on the print sheet.
   As one of the favorite tools among Makers, masking tapes can improve the adhesion of the initial layer. Every time before a new print, you can just conveniently tear the old tapes off and apply new ones. More importantly, they won’t damage the print sheet. If your print sheet already has traces that can affect printing quality, you can cover them with masking tapes to minimize their annoying effects.
   
   There are things you should pay attention to when using masking tapes:

• • Do not overlap masking tapes, for the nozzle may lift the overlapped part of the tapes when printing the initial layer. Beyond that, take special care when sticking the edges of masking tapes. When the 3D printing module finishes heating and moves from the bottom left of the print sheet to the target area, it may easily scratch up the edges of masking tapes.
  • The area covered by masking tapes should be larger than the printing area; otherwise, the nozzle might also scratch the edges of the tapes.
  • Level the heated bed again after applying the masking tapes before printing. This is because the tape itself has a certain thickness, so printing without a second leveling may cause extra problems.
    

4. Apply washable glue to the estimated printing area on the print sheet before printing.
   Note that one or two thin coats of glue are enough, and make sure the glue is applied evenly to avoid lumping. When the printing is completed, you can easily remove the glue traces with water and a towel. Besides, it’s better to clean the glue immediately after printing when the heated bed has not cooled down, or you can clean the glue with warm water.
   
   
   
5. Set the Line Count to 3 or above if you choose Skirt as the Build Plate Adhesion Type in the slicer.
   Setting the build plate adhesion type helps enhance the initial layer adhesion, but when you select skirt and set the line count to a value smaller than 3, there are chances that some filament residues would stick to the print sheet and be difficult to remove.

Cleaning Tips

We have collected some practical cleaning tips from our colleagues and forum, which can be roughly divided into physical and chemical ones. When there are filament residues or grease on the print sheet, you can try some of the methods below.

Physical Method

You might be wondering: Nobody cooks on the print sheet, so where does the grease come from?

In fact, our skin produces natural grease that might stick to the print sheet while we operate the 3D printer. Besides, dust from the air can also fall on the print sheet. The accumulation of grease and dust over time will inevitably affect the adhesion performance of the print sheet. Therefore, we need to clean the print sheet regularly, even if there is no filament residue. If you print frequently, it’s best to wipe the surface of the print sheet with a clean towel after each printing.

The simplest and most effective physical method to remove filament residues is as follows.

1. Heat the heated bed to a temperature above 70℃ (gloves are suggested to protect your hands).
2. Clean the print sheet either with the palette knife in the Snapmaker tool box, or with a similar plastic tool.

Be careful about your force in the process so that the palette knife doesn’t damage the print sheet. It’s recommended that you hold the front part of the knife with great care, concentrate the force of your fingers, and slowly clean the residues.

The palette knife might leave some tiny scratches during this process, which are tolerable as long as they don’t affect the flatness of the print sheet.

Chemical Method

Actually, we don’t recommend that you use the chemical method. As mentioned before, the surface of the print sheet sticker is specially processed for better adhesion performance. However, the chemical solvents may damage the surface. Therefore, use the chemical methods as a last resort and with caution even if they can help sometimes. Only when the physical method doesn’t work and you have no other print sheets for replacement can you try the chemical ways.

According to tests, the 70% (or above) isopropyl alcohol (IPA) may help remove filament residues yet must be used in a well-ventilated area with protective measures. Additionally, ensure the heated bed has cooled down when using this method because the IPA is highly volatile.

It should also be noted that for filament residues accumulated for a long time, neither physical method nor chemical method is of much help. Therefore, it’s better to clean the print sheet after each use.

If one side of the print sheet cannot be used anymore, switch to the other side. If the damaged side is uneven with filament residues, you need first remove the residues before switching, or the flatness of the print sheet could be influenced. If both sides of the print sheet are damaged, you can place an order at our official store for a new print sheet with a few clicks!

We hope this article could be useful for you!

In the future, Snapmaker Academy will bring you more fun topics, so stay tuned!

If you are interested in other content of 3D printing, feel free to contact us at support@snapmaker.com or leave your message in the community.

Disclaimer

All the methods in this article are for reference only.

Snapmaker does not assume responsibility for loss, injuries, damage, or expense arising from or in any way connected with the methods in this article.

Hello, Maker!

Did the nozzle jam ever happen to your 3D printer?

I printed a model a few days ago and walked away for a while during the printing. When I came back, I just found my 3D Printing Module was moving back and forth while no filament was not extruded out, and the module was happily going farther and farther away from the model under my eyes...

It turned out that the nozzle was clogged!

After going through relevant information and asking for help from our Engineers, I finally made the nozzle work again and completed my printing. In this article, I will share the method with you in case you are bothered with the same problem someday.

Why It Happens

There are actually many reasons for nozzle clogging, but they are mainly related to the following three factors:

1. Filament degradation
2. Improper operation
3. Component malfunction

Filament Degradation

The nozzle is the only way out for the filament during printing. Therefore, if your nozzle is clogged, it has something to do with the filament you use in most cases.

The filament quality is the first thing to consider. As 3D printing becomes ubiquitous, the filament market is booming with a dazzling of different brands, features, and colors. But their quality varies. Poor-quality filaments often contain impurities beyond standard limits, which accumulate over time and are likely to clog the nozzle. Moreover, such filaments usually have inconsistent diameters, which can also lead to nozzle jam. Therefore, have second thoughts on cheap filaments since they might result in a lot of maintenance costs in the future.

But will good filaments solve the problem once for all? The answer is negative.

The storage of filaments also matters in that moisture and dust that accumulate on the filament are also common causes of nozzle jam. After wetted (due to poor storage), the filament will gradually become harder and more brittle. It may easily break in the module and hence cannot be extruded smoothly out of the nozzle. In addition, wetted filaments have a higher melting point, which can also lead to nozzle jam. When the filament is extruded out from the nozzle, the dust with it will not be melted and extruded together. On the contrary, they will accumulate at the nozzle outlet, and clog the nozzle over time. For more information about filament storage and drying, see 3D Printing Filament Storage and Drying: Why and How.

Improper Operation

Many of your habitual operations will unknowingly cause nozzle jams. A few typical ones are listed as follows.

1. The most direct improper operation is actually not having the habit of cleaning the nozzle. If you want to reduce the chance of nozzle clogging, you must first remember to clean the nozzle to remove the residues left inside or outside after each printing (the specific methods will be introduced later). If not removed, the residues inside the nozzle will inevitably cause nozzle jam over time, and those left outside may prevent the nozzle from being heated up to the specified temperature. As a result, the filament cannot be fully melted and thus clogs the nozzle.
   
   
   
   
2. The filament is not changed or unloaded according to regular procedures. If you directly cut it off or even roughly pull it off, you may find that the new filament cannot be extruded properly the next time you print.
3. The printing temperature is not set correctly. The temperature is too low for the filament to be fully melted, which will lead to nozzle jam over time. Here is a tip: When the machine’s working temperature is low in winter, you can increase the printing temperature by 5-10℃. But remember, don’t set the temperature too high, either. Otherwise the filament will soften before it should. In this case, the gear will not be able to push forward the filament through the nozzle but chew a spot in the filament, which is known as “Heat Creep”. Furthermore, at an excessively high temperature, the filament may liquefy and stick to the outer surface of the nozzle more easily.
   
   
   
   
4. If the nozzle is set too close to the heated bed during leveling, the filament will not be extruded out smoothly and will accumulate inside the nozzle,  causing jams after cooling. This is generally due to the inaccurate manual leveling of the Heated Bed, or the failure to calibrate the distance between the nozzle tip and the heated bed in the last step of Auto Leveling. If the filament is not extruded when the initial layer is first printed, this is likely to be the case.
   
   
   
   
5. The print speed is too fast, and the filament cannot be melted adequately before extrusion. Over time, the nozzle will inevitably get clogged.
   
   
   
   
6. Too much retraction or too much tension in the feeding gears will also increase the risk of nozzle jam.
7. When the nozzle moves to the warped edge, it is likely to be topped by the raised part, and the filament that would have been normally extruded will also be temporarily blocked in the nozzle at that moment. If this happens more times, the nozzle may become clogged.
   
   
   
   
8. Different types of filaments are switched frequently. If you first use the filament with a high melting temperature and then switch to use another filament with a much lower melting temperature, the residues of the first filament are likely to accumulate inside the nozzle to accelerate jams.

Component Malfunction

As we mentioned above, an excessively high or low printing temperature can result in nozzle jams. But sometimes, at a proper printing temperature, the nozzle still gets clogged. The reason might be that the heating component of the 3D Printing Module has failed to heat the nozzle to the specified temperature, or the cooling fan inside the Module has malfunctioned, leading to early softening of the filament.

How to Identify

A nozzle can be partially or entirely clogged.

In the former case, the filament can be extruded from the nozzle, but it will show some unusual signs. For example, you find debris in the gears if opening the front cover of the 3D Printing Module; the nozzle extrudes much thinner filaments than usual; or the extruded filament has a rough surface.

For the latter, it is much easier to tell if the nozzle is clogged. For example, as we described at the beginning of this article, the module idles and no filament is extruded out; or the filament has been inserted into the module, but no filament is extruded when you load the filaments after the nozzle is heated.

How to Avoid

You are lucky if your 3D printing module is free from the above abnormalities. But, you still need to prepare for a rainy day. The easiest way is to go against the causes:

1. Buy filaments produced by qualified manufacturers;
2. Protect your filaments from dust and moisture;
3. Check if the filament will break easily before printing;
4. Set a proper printing temperature for different types of filaments;
5. Empty and clean the nozzle as soon as possible after printing;
6. Remove the filaments and store them properly if the 3D printer will be left unused for a long time;
7. Always turn on the printer and heat up the nozzle before unloading, changing, or loading the filament.

How to Clean

Here are some methods of cleaning your nozzle in printing routines and after clogging.

Routine Cleaning

1. Turn off the printer and wait for the nozzle to cool down, then disassemble the nozzle and clean its outer surface with a cotton swab dipped in anhydrous ethanol. Please take protective measures beforehand, such as putting on gloves.
2. Start the printer and heat the nozzle, then clean it with tweezers after the filament on the outside of the nozzle is melted.
   
   
   
   
3. If you do not want to turn on the printer, you can detach the nozzle and then heat it with a heat gun before performing the cleaning. But you need to be careful to prevent burns.

Clogged Nozzle Rescue

1. If the nozzle has been clogged already, first check if the nozzle tip is sealed by residues against its outer surface. If yes, follow the daily cleaning steps to remove the residues and see if the filament can be extruded smoothly.
2. If the nozzle is clogged inside, first heat up the nozzle, unload the filament and then insert a needle slightly thinner than the nozzle inside to unclog it. You can also use a wire or guitar string as an alternative, as long as it can be inserted inside.
   
   
   
   
3. If the type of filament that clogs the nozzle is known for sure, heat the nozzle and insert a harder filament with a higher melting point into the 3D Printing Module to unclog the nozzle.

We hope this article could be useful for you.
In the future, Snapmaker Academy will bring you more exciting topics, so STAY TUNED!
If you are interested in other topics of 3D printing, feel free to contact us at support@snapmaker.com, or leave your message in the community.

Disclaimer

All the methods in this article are for reference only.

Snapmaker does not assume responsibility for loss, injuries, damage, or expense arising from or in any way connected with the methods in this article.

Hello, Maker!

Today we’re going to talk about a topic that is important yet easily neglected (and will surely bring you problems someday if so): Filament storage and drying. Ten minutes taken for reading this article, and troubles in the future saved!

Why Serious About Filament Storage

Have you ever bought many filaments at one time when there's actually not much need? Do you always tear their packings and try them all in the first place? And do you seldom use up a spool of filament before you start with a new one?
If the answers are yes, I guess that most of the filaments you've purchased are left unused in some corner now, and some of them might have been “killed” by the moisture if you haven't paid any attention to the environment and methods for their storage and let them stay exposed to the open air.

Almost all kinds of 3D Printing filament are hygroscopic, which means they can absorb the water from the air and end up wet sooner or later.

"Being wetted" seems no big deal since it happens so commonly in our daily life, but things go different for 3D printing filaments in that it can bring about irreversible changes and lead to severe consequences in at least three ways as follows.

• Quality degradation
  The physical properties of the filament change as it becomes wet. For example, the filament will swell in diameter, not easy to notice with your naked eyes though. At the same time, it will also turn harder and more brittle, which makes them easier to break, thereby increasing the difficulty of use and maintenance.
  
• Bad print
  When the wet filament is heated in the nozzle, the moisture contained in it will boil and produce many tiny bubbles. This gives rise to an unstable flow of the extruded filament, and therefore a rough and uneven surface of the print. What's more, after the printer has given the order for the nozzle to stop extruding, the filament is very likely to continue to run out of the nozzle since the moisture in it will be boiling for a while, which causes strings on the print, a real headache for many makers.
  
  
• Printer damage
  Not joking, printing with wet filaments can bring damage to your machine. As we just mentioned, wet filaments are more prone to be stringy during the printing, and that will likely clog or even damage the nozzle. Additionally, the melting point of the filament will become higher when it is wetted. Thus, the filament will not be melt so well at the original temperature, which possibly causes the nozzle jam too. Beyond that, if the filaments are left unused in the machine for a long time, they will swell in diameter, as said before, and get stuck in the nozzle.

Some may wonder: wet quilts can be easily dried if put under the sun, then how about the wet filament? Can we restore its quality by drying it?
Research shows that drying helps, but the quality of the filament will still decrease by 33% even after it is perfectly redried, since its physical property has been changed more or less, which cannot be recovered simply by drying the moisture contained in it.

So, how exactly does its physical property change?
When the filament absorbs water, they react with each other. The filaments are polymer — until water molecules break up all the secondary molecular bonds and change them into monomers, and this is also the reason why wet filaments are harder and more brittle.

If you have been long confused by problems like filament quality degradation, bad prints, or clogged nozzles without any clues, it's time to think about the storage of your filament.

Appropriate Storage Conditions

The temperature and the humidity are the two of the most key factors to consider here.
Generally speaking, you should store your filament away from direct sunlight and where the temperature is not too hot or cold. Data show that filaments such as PLA, TPU, PC, Nylon, etc. are better stored between -20 ℃/-4 ℉ and 30 ℃/86 ℉. The humidity is better kept between 10% to 20%. If it goes higher than 50%, your filament is very likely to be wetted. Nevertheless, the most suitable conditions differ from filament to filament, and that's why most professional filament manufacturers generally include instructions or guides inside the packaging, describing in detail the properties and storage conditions of their filaments. Just remember not to throw them away at first!

Ways to Store Filament

Several things need to be clear before we talk about the storage methods:

• Even if the filament can be stored for up to two years in an ideal environment, it's recommended that you buy just as much as you need
• Try to use up the filament in a month after it starts to be exposed to the air;
• If you have to leave it unused for the moment, don't keep it waiting for more than one year.

Now, let me introduce the moisture-proof storage methods for filaments that are more popular (and economic) among makers.

1. Put your filament in a sealed bag or box with enough desiccant packets inside or a whole layer of silica gel beads on the bottom. You can also put inside a cheap electronic thermometer that tells both the temperature and the humidity, which enables you to monitor the storage from time to time.
   You don’t need to buy the desiccant packets in particular—just collect them from the snack bags. Silica gel beads are also a good choice because they can be heated and dried for reuse at regular intervals. In addition, some makers said that it would be better to wrap the silica gel beads in cloth bags, because the cloth helps absorb water too.
   Although the household sealed storage box can meet the demand, many makers designed special containers for storing filaments. You can download the file and print one out directly, or make some adjustments and create the most suitable filament container for yourself!
   
   Filament dry box for 3-4 spools of filament
   Filament Storage Solution
   Build your own DIY filament box
   
   
   
   
2. Try a vacuum bag, put inside again desiccant packets or silica gel beads, and force the air out of the bag with a pump. It's more suited to store the filament that will not be used very frequently.
3. If you happen to have a cat and use the crystal cat litter, you can borrow some to store your filament. The crystal cat litter is made of silica gel, so it can work as the desiccant too. Just look out for one thing: don't let the cat mistake that you've got it a new toilet...
   
4. Again if you have a pet, you can use the pet food container to store the filament. Generally speaking, such containers are made satisfactory in being airtight, for the pet food absorbs moisture easily too.
5. Choose professional filament storage equipment. Several filament manufacturers have developed specially-designed containers for makers to best store their filaments. Although it might be a little more expensive than other methods, it saves you time and effort in the long run.

How to Judge Whether Filament Is Wet

Now, you have been clear about the importance and specific methods of filament storage. But before putting them into practice, probably you should first judge whether your filament has been wetted.
Check the following ten descriptions carefully. If you get 5 or 6 hits, you'd better dry the filaments before storing them.

1. The filament becomes harder, and easier to break.
2. Abnormal spots or bubbles on the surface of the filament.
3. The melting point of the filament becomes higher.
4. There is steam coming out of the nozzle during printing.
5. There are crackling and popping sounds when the filament is extruded out (the moisture is boiling and evaporating).
6. Poorer adhesion of the first layer with the printing parameters unchanged.
7. The printed lines are not continuous.
8. Severe stringing or oozing.
9. Fuzzy or complex textures or small bubbles on the surface of the print.
10. The nozzle is often clogged.

Ways to Dry Filament

If you have found that the filament has been wetted, then it's time to dry them. As for the drying methods, makers have shown their strange yet effective wisdom.

1. Use an oven that can heat at low temperatures (e.g., below 50 ℃/122 ℉). Since the actual temperature is not always the same as set, you can put a thermometer inside the oven to measure the heat difference before drying.
   If the filament is heated at temperatures that are higher than recommended, the result could be counterproductive. Therefore, frequent monitoring is also required.
   What's worth noting is that this method cannot be used to dry the filament that might produce toxic substances when heated, which will pollute the interior of the oven. The steps are as follows.
   
   1. Set the target temperature.
   2. After the preheating, put the filament inside the oven.
   3. Heat the filament for four to six hours (for reference only; depending on the filament types, the quantity, and other factors).
   
   
2. Use a food dehydrator or fruit dryer. The recommended temperature settings are similar to the case of the oven.
3. Use a pet hair dryer that can heat above 40 ℃/104 ℉. Considering the health of your pet, this method is not suitable for drying filaments that may produce toxic substances, either.
4. Put the filament on the Heated Bed of your 3D printer, cover it with a box, then set the desired temperature, and leave it heated for about six to eight hours.
5. Use professional drying equipment, which is safer and more efficient.

For reference only, here are some recommended drying temperatures for common 3D printing filaments:
PLA: 40 °C–48 °C (104 ℉–118.4 ℉)
TPU: 45 °C–55 °C (113 ℉–131 ℉)
ABS, Nylon: 60 °C–80 ℃ (140 ℉–176 ℉)
PETG: 60 °C–70 °C (140 ℉–158 ℉)
PC: 120 °C–130 °C (248 ℉–266 ℉)

Generally speaking, it is necessary to dry the filament as soon as you find it wetted. The longer it is being wet, the more difficult for you to dry it.

Besides the moisture, filaments are also susceptible to dust if not stored properly, which is another cause of nozzle jam. Therefore, you should also dedust the filament before printing, like blowing (instead of collecting, because some dust hidden in the filament coil is difficult to be collected up but easy to blow away) it with a dust cleaner, or install a dust-cleaning clip on your 3D printer, ensuring that the filament is dust-free before loaded into the extruder. The following are some cleaning clips designed by makers in TG, go print one and say Bye to the dust!

Universal Filament Filter and Lubricator
Snap-on Filament Filter/Oiler
Universal Filament filter or dust filter

We hope this article could be useful for you.
In the future, Snapmaker Academy will bring you more exciting topics, so STAY TUNED!
If you are interested in other topics of 3D printing, feel free to contact us at support@snapmaker.com, or leave your message in the community.

Disclaimer

All the data and methods in this article are for reference only.

Snapmaker does not assume responsibility for loss, injuries, damage, or expense arising from or in any way connected with the data or methods in this article.

Hey there, Maker!

Welcome to the CNC series of Snapmaker Academy. The previous five episodes focus on the CAD and CAM processes. Now, it's time to dive into practical machining.

We already understood that CNC machining works by removing material from a solid workpiece to achieve the desired geometry. The toolpath (or G-code) instructs the cutting tool (aka bit) on how to move, while the cutting tool engages with the workpiece to produce the outcome.

Just like you wouldn't use a dagger to chop ribs, various cutting tools are designed to cut out different geometries. Choosing the right cutting tool is critical to your project's efficiency and even success. Therefore, this article aims to introduce the basics of cuttings tools and walk you through some of the most commonly used router bits.

First, let's get to know the major features used to categorize a cutting tool.

Basic Terminologies

Flutes/Teeth

Teeth refer to the cutting edges, and flutes are the grooves formed between teeth. As the bit rotates, teeth are responsible for cutting materials off, while flutes help evacuate the chips (namely removed materials) from the workpiece. Though not to be taken as the same thing, these two terms are usually interchangeable since they are always identical in number.

Number of Flutes

The number of flutes on your router bit impacts the work speed and the surface finish of your product. Having more flutes offers two main advantages. First, it adds to the strength of the bit, which means the bit can be fed into the workpiece faster and work on harder material. Secondly, bits with more flutes tend to give a better surface finish.

Bits of different numbers of flutes

However, this doesn't mean you should try to go for as many teeth as you can. To explain this, we need to introduce a new concept: chip clearance. Flutes serve as the passage for chips to evacuate, and chip clearance is the amount of space that a single flute takes up. When the number of flutes increases, chip clearance (i.e., the passage) gets smaller, hence the more difficult for the chips to be evacuated. Yet, if you can't get the chips out in time, the heat produced during cutting will build up, eventually destroy the bit and even lead to burning. This is especially the case for materials like aluminum which produces large and sticky chips. That's why you should try to find the balance when deciding the number of flutes.

Type of Flutes

There are two common types of flutes: straight and spiral.

• A straight flute is parallel to the shank of the bit, striking the surface of the material perpendicular to the rotation direction. Straight bits are stronger than spiral bits and can be used at higher speeds. On the other hand, they produce less smooth surface finish on the workpiece since such design brings more chatter. They are commonly used for slotting and cutting straight contours.

Straight flutes vs. Spiral flutes

• A spiral flute goes along the shank of the bit spirally, staying in constant contact with the material surface. Such design allows less chatter and leaves the finished surface smoother, making these kinds of bits ideal for trimming surfaces. However, spiral bits are weaker when held against straight ones and cannot cut too deep into the material or work at very high speeds.

Geometries

Shape of Tip

Router bits come in a variety of tips, each creating different shapes of cuts as they engage with the material. Some of the most common types you will find are flat, ball-nose, and chamfer.

• A flat (or square) tip got a nearly 90-degree angle between its circumference and the end surface.
• A ball-nose tip has a sphere-shaped end, as its name suggests.
• A chamfer tip is a sharp conical tip. Chamfer bits are also called V-bits for their tips looking like the letter "V".

Upcut vs. Downcut

Spiral flutes can be further divided into two categories: upcut and downcut. The differences between the two types of spirals are crucial because they determine the direction in which chips are evacuated.

The spiral flutes of an upcut bit wrap around the body of the bit clockwise, pulling chips away from the workpiece being cut. An upcut bit tends to leave a rough surface finish on the top of the workpiece and a smooth surface on the bottom.

A spiral downcut bit, however, pushes chips down as it's cutting, with the flutes wrapping around the bit counterclockwise. Conversely, a downcut bit leaves a cleaner cut on top but a fuzzy surface at the bottom.

It's worth noting that you should always use an upcut bit for plunging operations unless you know what you're doing, especially for thicker materials. The reason is when a downcut bit plunges straight down, the chips have nowhere to go but to grind against each other as the bit spins, which is going to create friction and even start a fire.

Center Cutting vs. Non-center Cutting

Router bits are either center cutting or non-center cutting. The cutting edges of a center cutting bit go all the way into the center, whereas those of a non-center cutting bit leave a hole in the center. Center cutting bits can plunge straight down into the material, while non-center cutting bits cannot.

If a non-center bit were to plunge into the material, the material engaging with the hole in the cutting edges remains uncut, which can break the bit and lead to burning. To use these bits, you need to drill a pilot hole or use ramp plunge moves. Perhaps the only good reason to buy non-center bits is they are cheaper.

Size

Basically, size determines what you can do with any given router bit. Large ones are good at cutting a lot of material, but it comes at the cost of details. Smaller bits provide higher resolution in detail, with a trade-off in strength and machining efficiency.

Overall Length

The overall length is the distance between one end of a bit to the other. Longer bits are able to reach down deeper into the material. Now, you might believe that having longer bits sounds like a safe bet since they offer more choices. Unfortunately, that's not the case.

This brings us to a concept called "stickout". Stickout refers to the distance from the end of the collet (i.e., tool holder) to the bit's tip. It's this part of the bit that works without support. The more stickout, the less rigid a tool is. If it sticks out too far, the bit is prone to be bent by the cutting force.

Cutting Length

As we can see, cutting edges (or flutes) cover only a portion of the bit. The cutting length (also called "flute length") of a bit determines how deep it can cut into the material. Note that the cutting depth should never exceed the flute length of your bit. Otherwise, chips won't be pulled out properly, and your bit could be damaged by the heat accumulated.

Shank Diameter

The shank diameter is the width of the non-cutting end of the tool. This is the diameter that will go into your collet. Common shank sizes are 3.175 mm (1/8 inch) and 6.35 mm (1/4 inch).

Cutting Diameter

This is the diameter of the cutting end of your router bit. It is often the first thing to look for when choosing a tool for your job, as it determines the resolution of cutting.

When cutting, the cutting edge will leave a circular profile in every internal corner, with a radius equal to half its diameter. Also, it is impossible to cut out features that are smaller than the cutting diameter because bits are cylinders (except for V-bits). Say, you can never have a slot that is 2 mm wide using a typical bit with a cutting diameter of 3.175 mm.

On the other hand, a bigger cutting diameter makes your bit more rigid, allowing deeper cuts. Besides, bits with a larger cutter diameter can remove more material per unit of time, which means you can do the same job faster.

Common Router Bits

There are literally tens of thousands of tool types and variations available for CNC machines. Covering every type and use is beyond the scope of this article. We will introduce the most commonly used router bits.

Before diving in, we need to clarify the differences between milling bits and drill bits. Milling bits, including end mills, face mills, and v-bits, are designed to cut with their cutting edges as they move laterally through the material. By contrast, drill bits are intended to be used for drilling holes, plunging straight down into the material.

End Mill

End mills are designed to cut with their cutting edges on the circumference of the bit, but they do have cutting edges on the end surface too. Though center-cutting end mills are capable of plunging straight down, such operations could be demanding for them and should be avoided if possible.

Flat End Mill

With a nearly 90-degree angle between its circumference and end surface, a flat end mill is going to create neat square corners at the bottom and a flat surface anywhere it passes over the top of. They are great for removing large amounts of material, widely used for everything from roughing to cutting pockets and 2D contours.

Flat end mill

Ball-nose End Mill

The circumference and the end surface of a ball-nose end mill form a rounded corner. The radius of that round corner equals the cutting radius (i.e., half of the cutting diameter). These mills excel at creating curvature or detail-rich 3D shapes like relief.

Ball-nose end mill

Since their tips are round, cutting out a perfectly flat surface is challenging for these bits because they will leave scallops on the workpiece.

Bull-nose End Mill

You can see bull-nose end mills as a transition between flat and ball-nose ones. The radius of its round corner is smaller than the cutting radius. Since they combine a flat bottom with round corners, they can create flat-bottomed pockets with rounded corners at once without changing tools.

Bull-nose end mill

Roughing End Mill

Roughing end mills have many serrations on the cutting edges to quickly break up chips, which is great for efficiently removing a large amount of material. The thing with roughing end mills is that they will leave a poor surface finish with corncob-looking tracks on your workpiece, and that's why they are often referred to as corncob end mills. Hence, roughing end mills are for roughing only.

Roughing end mill

Face Mill

Face mills are designed to cut with their cutting edges on the end surface of the bit. They often come with multiple cutting edges that are replaceable, which allows removing more materials at higher speeds. These kinds of mills need powerful spindles to push them.  These mills are mostly used for creating a large and smooth flat face on the surface of a plate or bar workpiece. 

Face mill

V-bit

V-bit, also known as chamfer mills, are used for chamfering, deburring edges, and letter engraving. They are not so good at cutting profiles or carving out pockets since they'll leave a sloped surface on the workpiece.

V-bits are available in many sizes and angles, although 90, 60, and 30 degrees are most common. A smaller angle often comes with a smaller cutting diameter, supporting shallower cuts while retaining more details. A bigger angle allows wider cutting diameter and deeper cuts.

V-bits in different sizes

Drill Bit

Drill bits are designed to bore straight down into the material with their pointed tip. Unlike milling bits, their flutes only function as the passage for chips to be pulled out. They are often used for pre-drilling holes for screws.

Drill bit

Summary & Next Up

This article introduces some of the most commonly used router bits on top of explaining the basic terminologies used to describe cutting tools. And that is the foundation for us to look into setting parameters for cutting jobs in the future. We hope it could be helpful for you!

In the next episode, we are going to introduce some of the most common features of a model that you might encounter and then exemplify how to choose the right router bits for a CNC project. Please stay tuned!

Hey there, Maker!

This article breaks into two parts. In part 1, we learned the concepts of CAD, CAM, post processor, and firmware, as well as the CAM workflow of Fusion 360 in detail.

In this part, we will continue with other CAD/CAM software picks: FreeCAD, Aspire, and Carveco Maker (formerly ArtCAM). We will also briefly introduce two easy-to-use CAM software picks: Snapmaker Luban and MeshCAM.

CAM Software

 This article only focuses on the CAM features of the software introduced. To learn more about their CAD-related features and highlights, see CAD for CNC: Eight 3D Modeling Software Picks to Visualize Your Ideas.

FreeCAD

FreeCAD is a free 3D modeling software with a strong suit for designing solid models. Once a model has been created, you can switch to Path Workbench to generate the toolpath and G-code.

 If you're using FreeCAD to design models for the first time, you need to download and import the post and tool library to ensure that the G-code that is to be generated can be successfully exported to Snapmaker CNC Carving Module for further processing. 

• To import the post, copy the .py file to the Mod\Path\PathScripts\post folder in the installation directory of FreeCAD.
• To import the tool library in the latest FreeCAD 0.19, perform the following steps:

1. Click Edit > Preferences > Path > Job Preferences > Tools. Select Use Legacy Tools, and click OK.
2. Switch to Path workbench. Click  > Import. Select the .json file in the FreeCAD folder of the post and tool library and click Open.

Import a tool library in FreeCAD - 1

Import a tool library in FreeCAD - 2

Click  to set up the basic configurations of your carving job. In the Output tab of the Job Edit panel, you can enter a name and extension for the G-code file to be generated and select the post in the Processor bar. In the Setup tab, you can define the dimensions of the stock in relation to the model and the location of work origin. In the Tools tab, you can select the tool for your carving job.

 The extension for G-code files that Snapmaker CNC Carving Module can recognize is .cnc.

After performing these basic configurations, you can select different features of the model in the tree diagram on the left and apply different machining strategies to generate separate toolpaths for each of them. For example, for the outer profile of your model, select a strategy that can quickly cut through the material, whereas for sunken areas, opt for a strategy that can efficiently remove the material. While generating toolpaths, FreeCAD allows you to preview how the tool moves and what the finished product looks like, so that you can make adjustments in real time.

Simulation in FreeCAD

If you know your way around G-code, you can click  to inspect the G-code content of a path and view or directly edit the G-code in the text box that appears. Once everything is set, click  to post process the selected job and generate the G-code specific to Snapmaker CNC Carving Module.

Here are two great tutorial videos that you can check out: FreeCAD - The Powerful Path Workbench for CNC Machining and G-code and Ultimate Free CNC CAM tutorial with FreeCAD.

Aspire

Aspire is a reputable wood relief design software with powerful CAM features.

With Aspire, the first step of modeling is setting the coordinate system and the stock parameters. When creating a project, you need to specify Job Type, Job Size, work origin (i.e., XY Datum Position, and Z Zero Position), and Orientation in the Job Setup pane first. Aspire supports four-axis CNC carving. To work with Snapmaker Rotary Module, just select Rotary in Job Type.

 If you're using Aspire for the first time, you need to download and import the post and tool library to ensure that the G-code can be successfully exported to Snapmaker CNC Carving Module for further processing.

• To import the post, open Aspire, click Toolpaths > Install Post Processor..., and click the .pp file in the Aspire folder of the post and tool library. (There are two files with the .pp extension in the folder, one for three-axis machining and the other for four-axis machining. You can import only one post at a time.)

Import a post in Aspire

• To import the tool library, open Aspire, click Toolpaths > Tool Database, and click Import. Then, open the Aspire folder of the post and tool library and select the .tool file.
  

Import a tool library in Aspire - 1

Import a tool library in Aspire - 2

After you finish modeling, click on the top left to proceed to set up toolpaths by configuring the parameters in the Toolpaths pane that appears on the right. You can modify the previously set stock parameters in the Material Setup panel at the top.

Next, you get to choose appropriate machining strategies for different features of the model. In relief carving, for example, we apply rough machining to carve out the general outline and then use finish machining for the details. In these two rounds of machining, different tools and machining strategies are required, which are to be generated as corresponding toolpaths. In the Toolpaths pane, click Select to pop up the Tool Database window, where you can select the tool to use. Click Edit to set machining parameters such as spindle speed, feed rate, and stepover. When you’re done with setting the parameters, click Calculate to generate toolpaths.

After the toolpath is generated, click Preview Selected Toolpath to visualize how the tool moves and what the finished product looks like. Should you need to adjust the toolpath, the operation is pretty easy. Double click the toolpath on the right, and the parameter setting window then appears.

Simulation in Aspire

When all is set, click  to generate the G-code. The post that you have imported earlier will appear in the Post Processor bar. Click Save Toolpath(s), and the G-code customized for Snapmaker CNC Carving Module will be generated.

As a top choice for CNC relief design, Aspire comes with well-made official training videos. You can also find many videos made by users on YouTube and other platforms, such as Vectric 3D Carving & Toolpath Tutorial for Vcarve & Aspire and Basic Guide to CNC with Vectric Vcarve Pro / Aspire Profile Toolpath.

Carveco Maker

Our last guest is Carveco Maker created by the team behind ArtCAM. If you're familiar with ArtCAM, you will quickly pick up on Carveco Maker, as it draws heavily from its predecessor.

In Carveco Maker, two separate steps are required to set the stock dimensions. The width and height are defined when you create a new project, whereas stock thickness is defined in the window where you configure toolpath parameters. By default, the work origin is the center of the stock. You can modify it by clicking Model > Set Position (P) in the top navigation bar. After you finish modeling, click Toolpaths in the tree list on the right to start setting the machining strategies and toolpath parameters.

 If you're using Carveco Maker for the first time, you need to download and import the post and tool library to ensure that the G-code can be successfully exported to Snapmaker CNC Carving Module for further processing.

• To import the post, copy the .con file in the ArtCAM folder of the post and tool library to the postp folder in the installation directory of Carveco Maker.
• To import the tool library, after you finish modeling in Carveco Maker, click Toolpaths in the Project panel and then click in the Toolpath Operations panel to enter Tool Database. In the pop-up window, click Import.., select the .tdb file in the ArtCAM folder of the post and tool library, and click Open.
  

As with the previous software, different machining strategies are needed for different features of the model in Carveco Maker. After you select a feature, choose the way you want it to be machined by clicking the corresponding button on the Toolpaths pane to the right. In the pop-up window, you can select a tool and set its machining parameters, such as feed rate, stepover, and cutting depths. As mentioned previously, this window is also the place where you can define stock thickness. After finishing setting, you can run a simulation to view the processing results.

Simulation in Carveco Maker

After you finish configuring toolpaths, click Toolpaths in the tree list of the Project panel. Then, in the Toolpath Operations panel below, click  to save your toolpath. In the pop-up window, select the post processing method that has been imported in the drop-down list of Machine file format, and click Save to export the G-code. Now, we can send the G-code to the CNC machine for carving and simply wait for the finished product.

The Carveco Maker team has already made a series of official training videos, such as Carveco Maker - Designing A Plaque (part one) and Carveco Maker - Machining A Plaque (part two), covering the most common basic operations. The two videos here use the example of making a plaque to demonstrate the entire procedure, from designing a sketch to setting the toolpaths and exporting the G-code. Also, ArtCAM users have made a large amount of tutorials resources that are helpful for using Carveco Maker, as the two pieces of software practically share the same working logic.

Snapmaker Luban & MeshCAM

That's all for our introduction to CAD/CAM software picks. Sometimes, we have already finished the model design and simply want to turn it into toolpaths. This is where software dedicated to CAM comes in. So, let's take a look at two CAM software picks: Snapmaker Luban and MeshCAM.

Snapmaker Luban is free and open-source CAM software developed by the Snapmaker team. Tailored specifically to Snapmaker 3-in-1 3D Printer, it is designed with user-friendliness in mind around three major functions: 3D printing, laser engraving and cutting, and CNC carving. Needless to say, the CAM features of Snapmaker Luban match Snapmaker hardware with perfection. The toolpaths and G-code that it generates can be directly used by Snapmaker CNC Carving Module. In addition, it also supports the preview of tool movements and the finished product. If you simply want to carve out the finished product based on an existing model file, Snapmaker Luban is without doubt one of the best candidates.

MeshCAM is one of the most popular CAM software on the market, with excellent ease of use as its main highlight. Thanks to its straightforward workflow and simple operations, even those new to the world of CNC without machining knowledge can easily master it. Automatic toolpath configuration is one of the things that make MeshCAM great. Simply choose the tools and the desired quality level, and MeshCAM will automatically calculate the appropriate parameters. The built-in post processor of MeshCAM does not support Marlin yet. Some additional steps are required to translate the G-code into a format recognizable for Snapmaker.

Summary

The CNC workflow begins with CAD, where imaginations are transformed into designs. Next, CAM connects design and manufacturing by transforming designs into toolpaths for CNC carving machines. The first three articles of our CNC series focused on CAD and introduced eight CAD modeling software picks along with 12 recommended websites for modeling resources. In the fourth and fifth articles, we moved forward along the CNC workflow, clarified some key concepts in CAM, including post processor, firmware, and CAM workflow, and presented four integrated CAD/CAM software picks with their respective work process. Now, we have learned the complete process from CAD to CAM. We hope that these articles can help you get started with CAD and CAM for CNC!

Snapmaker Academy will continue to offer more CNC carving resources and information. So stay tuned! If you are interested in any topic, please feel free to let us know by leaving a message in our community or sending an email to support@snapmaker.com.

Disclaimer

Snapmaker recommends the software and videos to you in no particular order and for resource-sharing purposes only. Snapmaker does not in any way endorse, control, or assume responsibility for the content, views hosted on, and services provided by the developers of the software or individuals.

Hey there, Maker!

Welcome to Snapmaker Academy! This is the fourth episode of our CNC series. The three previous episodes focused on CAD and introduced some practical modeling software and websites of modeling resources. Now, let's turn to CAM and check out four CAM software picks suitable for CNC carving.

Photo by Fakurian Design on Unsplash

Before jumping right into CAM software, let's go through some basic concepts. First of all, what are CAD and CAM?

CAD vs. CAM

We already know that, in the CNC workflow, three steps are required to turn an idea into a finished product. First, obtain the model file. Second, transform the model file into commands that CNC machines can execute. Third, import the commands into a CNC machine to start carving till we obtain the finished product.

Computer-aided Design (CAD) refers to the first step in this workflow. It covers aspects related to model designing, such as conceptualization, detailing, modification, etc. Computer-aided Manufacturing (CAM), on the other hand, corresponds to the second step, through which models are transformed into commands (toolpaths and the corresponding G-code) that tell the CNC machines what to do. Usually, it also includes operations like simulation and error check to minimize the risk of going wrong.

For example, you want to build a toy car. First, you need to turn the imaginary toy car in your head into a model file, which is essentially a collection of geometrical data. This step is called CAD. Next, you use software to transform the model file into G-code. The toolpaths in the G-code tells the machine what to do in order to carve the geometric forms depicted by the model, such as round corners, bosses, and grooves of the toy car. With simulation and error check, you can preview the path of the tool on the material surface and judge if the carving will go smoothly. This step is called CAM.

Photo by Tool., Inc on Unsplash

In a nutshell, with CAD, we transform ideas into designs, and with CAM, we manufacture real products based on the designs. The two processes complement each other and are equally indispensable.

Post Processor & Firmware

Now, it's time to move on to two new terms: post processor and firmware.

As mentioned before, your design can become G-code thanks to CAM software. But in order to successfully carve out the finished product, a crucial step is to make sure that your machine can effectively recognize the G-code output by the CAM software.

You can think of G-code as a collection of different "dialects". Post processors translate the dialects into the one that your specific CNC carver can understand and execute. The file that post processors use for such translation is called a "post". A post processor can be either stand-alone software or integrated into CAM software.

Firmware is a special kind of software that is embedded in hardware, resembling the operating system of your computer. For 3D printers, firmware is responsible for transforming G-code into control commands that tell your CNC carver what to do. The firmware of your CNC carver determines the type of G-code it can read. This means that you need to know what language your machine speaks (i.e., its firmware type) first and then select a translator (i.e., a post processor) that works for it.

Products made with Snapmaker CNC Carving Module

Marlin is one of the most popular 3D printing firmware. Other widely-used firmware includes GRBL and Klipper. The firmware of Snapmaker 3-in-1 3D Printer is developed based on Marlin. Currently, we provide posts for ArtCAM, Aspire, FreeCAD, and Fusion 360. After downloading the file, simply import it to the software to generate the correct G-code for your Snapmaker CNC Carving Module.

 To learn more about Marlin, see What is Marlin?.

CAM Workflow

Before delving into each CAM software, let's go through the overall workflow of CAM briefly. This can help us better understand the logic of using each software. A typical CAM workflow consists of the following six steps:

1. Import the model to CAM software;
2. Set the coordinate system and define the position and work origin of the stock (i.e., the material to be carved);
3. Specify stock parameters, such as its dimension and orientation;
4. Select the machining method (for example, three-axis machining or four-axis machining) and the tool (for example, flat end mill or ball end mill) being used;
5. Preview the toolpath in simulation to visualize in advance how the tool moves and what the finished product looks like;
6. Perform post processing and export the G-code.

Now that we have understood the role of CAM in the CNC workflow and the CAM workflow, it's finally time to get down to business. Let's look at some excellent CAM software!

CAM Software

CAD and CAM are two independent procedures, and a lot of software focuses on one of the two. However, due to our pursuit of convenience, more and more software now integrates both CAD and CAM features to enable an all-in-one design process.

One big advantage of this type of CAD/CAM software is the elimination of data format conversion, which occurs when you import a model file from CAD software to CAM software. CAD/CAM software works with the same data files from sketch design to the generation of G-code. What's more, it is easier to edit model files because you do not need to switch between different software. This article will introduce four pieces of CAD/CAM software with a focus on CAM: Fusion 360, FreeCAD, Aspire, and Carveco Maker (formerly ArtCAM).

To learn more about their CAD-related features and highlights, see CAD for CNC: Eight 3D Modeling Software Picks to Visualize Your Ideas.

Fusion 360

The CAD part ends as you finish the sketch design in the Design Workspace of Fusion 360. You can then click to switch to Manufacture Workspace for performing CAM operations.

 If you're using Fusion 360 to design models for the first time, you need to download the post and tool library first and then import them to Fusion 360. The video How to Model & Setup CAM for CNC in Fusion 360 shows you how to do it. As mentioned before, the post ensures that Snapmaker CNC Carving Module can understand the G-code that will be generated by Fusion 360. The tool library tells the software which type of tool we intend to use so that the software can calculate the corresponding toolpath.

Preparations are now done. We can proceed to the manufacturing process! The first step is setup. In this step, we define the coordinate system and the work origin for the stock. By specifying how the stock is placed on the work platform of your CNC carver, this step associates the virtual coordinates in the software with the actual ones in manufacturing.

Now, the software knows the data of the model file, the size and orientation of the stock, and the tool type. It's got everything needed to calculate and generate the toolpath that instructs the tool on how to move. In addition, Fusion 360 supports real-time simulation. It shows the path of the tool in animation to let us visualize the final machining effect in advance. We can edit the toolpath while conducting simulations to optimize the carving result.

Simulation in Fusion 360

With the post imported previously, we can now directly convert the toolpath into the G-code specific to our Snapmaker CNC Carving Module. Then, we import the G-code to the machine and start carving. Now we just wait for the finished product.

Fusion 360 has a great number of users. Its CAM tutorial videos are also easy to find. There are official videos like Fusion 360 CAM Basics and videos made by users like How To Get Started with CAM Within Fusion 360 — Tutorial.

Next Up

Limited by length, this article breaks into two parts, and this is the first part. In the next part, we will continue with other CAD/CAM software: FreeCAD, Aspire, and Carveco Maker (formerly ArtCAM). We will also briefly introduce two pieces of CAM software: Snapmaker Luban and MeshCAM. So, make sure to stay tuned!

Disclaimer

Snapmaker recommends the software and videos to you in no particular order and for resource-sharing purposes only. Snapmaker does not in any way endorse, control, or assume responsibility for the content, views hosted on, and services provided by the developers of the software or individuals.

Hey there, Maker!

This article breaks into two parts. In Part 1, we introduced four pieces of artistic relief modeling software suitable for creating relief models that allow for more free-formed shapes and typically serve visual expression.

In addition to decorative relief, CNC carving is also commonly used to manufacture products with a more regular form or involving assembly, such as phone stands and toy cars. Strict with dimensions, these products should better be designed as solid models of higher accuracy to ensure smooth output to CNC machines. This is where we need to use industrial design modeling software.

Photo by Fakurian Design on Unsplash

In this article, we will take a look at the best of the best in industrial design modeling software for CNC solid modeling—Fusion 360, FreeCAD, SolidWorks, and SketchUp.

Industrial Design

Fusion 360

Price: $60/month, $495/year, or $1,335/3 years (By subscription)

Supported System: Windows, macOS

Highlights: One-stop work platform, Intuitive interface, Cloud storage, Massive supporting resources, One-year free trial

When it comes to solid modeling, we have to mention Autodesk Fusion 360, one of the top modeling software picks in recent years, especially all the rage among makers.

Fusion 360 boasts three benefits. First, it is not only a piece of modeling software, but also a versatile work platform providing a complete suite of tools from model design to manufacturing. It is easy for DIY hobbyists to learn.

Second, it connects modeling with manufacturing. Photorealistic rendering, product simulation testing, and a set of built-in CAM tools to directly generate toolpath and G-code enable a seamless transition from design to manufacturing in the CNC workflow.

Third, the software highlights excellent ease of use on top of its powerful features. Its intuitive interface is user-friendly and easy to get started with. Many users find Fusion 360 more productive than other equivalents when completing the same model design.

Fusion 360 has more to offer. It is one of the first CAD work platforms to support cloud storage. Users can synchronize personal files across multiple platforms and easily retrieve the change records, and collaborate with each other in real time.

In addition, thanks to the huge user base, related instructional videos are everywhere on YouTube, and third-party plug-ins and other resources are also abundant. Snapmaker Academy has previously produced a Fusion 360 tutorial on how to create a model, set up toolpaths, and use the Snapmaker 3-in-1 3D Printer to carve out a finished product.

Fusion 360 CAD & CAM Tutorial Video 

Of course, as a typical Autodesk product, Fusion 360 is available in Education and Personal editions, both of which are free for one year.

FreeCAD

Price: Permanently free

Supported System: Windows, macOS, Linux

Highlights: Open source, Cross-platform, Parametric modeling, Integrated CAM tools

FreeCAD is a piece of free and open-source 3D modeling software used to design solid models of any size for personal projects and fields such as industrial product design and architectural engineering.

The software is designed for parametric modeling, which means the shape of an object is defined by parameters, and all shape changes are recorded to maintain a precise modeling history. You can modify any feature of the models by changing the corresponding parameters. Moreover, changes to individual features can be synchronized to the final model by simply setting the constraints, eliminating the need for repeated operations.

FreeCAD is separated into workbenches. A workbench is a collection of tools suited for a specific task. The Part Workbench and the Part Design Workbench are commonly used in CNC carving. You can produce any geometry by building multiple 3D parts and connecting or assembling them.

FreeCAD can read and write files in various formats, including STEP, IGES, OBJ, STL, DWG, DXF, SVG, IFC, and DAE, basically covering all major 3D models and image files. Highly customizable and extensible, it can be augmented with various plug-ins to support more file formats. Tutorials on the software are easily accessible, such as How to model an easy part for CNC machining in FreeCAD.

In addition, it also provides CAM tools to help you link your design up with manufacturing. Once a model has been created, you can switch to the Path Workbench to generate toolpaths and G-code.

SolidWorks

Price: $3,995/license + $1,295/year by subscription (Standard version)

Supported System: Windows

Highlights: Parametric modeling, Powerful functionality, Easy to learn and use, Cloud storage, Integrated CAM tools

SolidWorks, a piece of CAD software developed by Dassault Systemes, is one of the top solid modeling software picks at present. Dassault Systemes provides 3D design and product development solutions in a wide range of fields such as aerospace, machinery and electronics, and energy materials. Boeing 777—the world's first 100% digitally designed jetliner—was modeled using the company's modeling software.

Like FreeCAD, SolidWorks uses parametric modeling to help you visualize your design precisely, and changes to individual features can be updated in real time to the final model. The modeling method is much the same as in FreeCAD, i.e., creating surfaces and then truncating or stretching the surfaces to get the model you want.

SolidWorks also provides rendering, simulation, manufacturability check, and CAM tools to help users reduce potential errors in the design process and achieve "manufacture-oriented design." In terms of data management, the software supports cloud storage and real-time collaboration. It boasts excellent expandability and compatibility, as it can be used with many plug-ins and other modeling software.

Among the four pieces of solid modeling software, SolidWorks provides the most powerful and comprehensive functions, allowing you to design complex parts and assemblies easily, and satisfy advanced modeling needs. Moreover, it is easy to use, intuitive, and quick to get started. As the software has millions of users, it is easy to access supporting resources from their official community, YouTube channel, and Reddit community. Technical support is covered in the annual subscription fee included in the price of the software.

SketchUp

Price: Free version and three paid versions available

Supported System: Windows and macOS for Desktop version and all operating systems for Web version

Highlights: Easy to use, Cloud storage, Web client available, Free model library

SketchUp is a piece of easy-to-use 3D design software, dubbed as the "pencil" to generate digital designs, which is widely used in interior and architectural design. If you are not sure which modeling software is right for you, SketchUp is a good choice to start with.

To build a model, you simply create 2D shapes by drawing lines and then extrude them into 3D objects. This is the most common method for architectural modeling and can also be used for CNC solid modeling of regular parts. You can also use SketchUp to break down the 3D structure to be assembled into vector graphics for CNC cutting. However, it does not provide CAM tools, and you need to install plug-ins or use other CAM software to generate toolpaths and G-code.

SketchUp is available in one free version and three paid versions. The free version is web-based, so it cannot be used offline. SketchUp Shop is the cheapest of the three paid versions and it is also web-based, so it is suitable for DIY modeling. The other two versions—Pro and Studio—can run on both web and desktop.

SketchUp supports a wealth of plug-ins and offers mobile apps for iOS and Android devices, allowing you to view your 3D models on your mobile device at any time. Its 3D Warehouse is a free online open library where anyone can upload or download materials and models. A lot of official tutorial videos are available, such as Top Tips for Fabrication and Prepping Woodworking Projects for LayOut in SketchUp. SketchUp also has an active community forum, which is worth visiting.

Summary

In this article, we introduced four pieces of industrial design software for solid modeling, namely Fusion 360, FreeCAD, SolidWorks, and SketchUp. The former three provide built-in CAM tools. Fusion 360 is known for its one-stop work platform and intuitive interface. FreeCAD is a piece of free open source software that can run on all platforms and support various extensions. SolidWorks is a powerful tool that can meet advanced modeling needs. SketchUp is the easiest to use and offers a free version.

Snapmaker Academy will continue to offer more CNC carving resources and information. So stay tuned! If you are interested in any topic, please feel free to let us know by leaving a message in our community or sending an email to support@snapmaker.com.

Disclaimer

Snapmaker recommends the software and videos to you in no particular order and for resource-sharing purposes only.

Snapmaker does not in any way endorse, control, or assume responsibility for the content, views hosted on, and services provided by the developers of the software or individuals.

Hey there, Maker!

In the previous article, Going from Art to Part: Models, Designs and Videos for CNC Carving, we explained that model files are the first step in the workflow of CNC carving and introduced several websites that offer ready models. But, what if you're looking to turn your unique ideas into reality?

A relief carving of your cat, a wooden tray sized to fit snugly into your corner cabinet, a spectacle frame tailored to your face shape ... If you've ever thought of making something like that, now's the time to take a step further.

New to 3D modeling or not sure how to choose modeling software? Snapmaker Academy is here to help! In this article, we will walk you through eight practical CNC modeling software picks for creating your own 3D models from scratch.

Photo by Fakurian Design on Unsplash

It's worth noting that we're touching on modeling software for CNC carving purposes only and do not intend to involve detailed software tutorials.

How to choose CNC modeling software?

The thing is that the dozens of modeling software on the market often come with distinctive operating logic and functional features. Considering the cost of learning, it's definitely wise to do your homework in choosing the right one. Here are some key factors worth considering:

• Purpose of Use

  
  The software you should use when designing something to be CNC machined depends greatly on what you are trying to make. For beginners, powerful or comprehensive functions may not be necessary. On the contrary, advanced functions can be intimidating until you become proficient.

• Function & Feature
  The usage of 3D models determines how they should be designed. That's why modeling software varies in function, feature, and expandability for specific fields.

• Price
  The vast majority of modeling software is charged with prices ranging from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars. Before placing your order, make sure you understand what is included in the service.

• Ease of Use
  The ease of use relates directly to the cost of learning the software. A helpful reference is how intuitive the interface is. Shortcuts can also be a time-saver when making repetitive operations. 

• Support Resources
  Support resources include official technical support, user communities, and relevant UGC. These resources are the channels you can resort to when encountering a problem. The larger the user base, the stronger the user community, which is especially important for beginners. Having the guidance of someone who has been there before can be sheer bliss when you're scratching your head over a particular feature.

• Trial Availability
  At the end of the day, one trial outclasses ten introductory articles in interpreting how the software works. Given the high pricing of most modeling software, an available trial version is probably the greatest virtue.

CNC Modeling Software

Solid Modeling VS Surface Modeling

First, notice that there is a fundamental difference between 3D models used for different purposes. For industries like machinery and mold manufacturing, 3D models require high dimensional accuracy and must form a closed space, so we call them solid models. For industries such as film and games, however, surface models are commonly used, which focus more on an object's external. They allow for more free-formed shapes and do not necessarily make up a closed space. Such models typically serve visual expression only, including animation character design, product display videos, etc.

Closed Space VS Open Space

An imperfect analogy would be a comparison between engineering drawings and art paintings: while one corresponds to real objects and must be precise to the length of each line and the size of each angle, the other is visually oriented and thus can go wild to display structures that cannot exist in reality.

Actual Structure VS Surreal Structure

（Photo by Autodesk Fusion 360 on YouTube & 8385 on pixabay）

Accordingly, 3D modeling software can be divided into three categories based on modeling mechanism: solid modeling, surface modeling, and solid + surface modeling. In CNC carving, surface modeling is appropriate for creating ornamental reliefs or parts with lots of irregularly curved surfaces. Instead, products involving complex assembly or parts consisting of regular shapes like rectangles, round holes and straight lines are suggested to be designed as solid models.

Next, let's get to the point — modeling software for CNC carving. Note that the following software may support both kinds of modeling but is here divided into two categories — artistic relief and industrial design — based on the modeling mechanism it is known for.

Artistic Relief

Aspire

Price: $1,995  (Perpetual for a specific version, including free minor updates)

Supported System: Windows

Highlights: Relief design, 2D to 3D, 4-axis CNC carving, Integrated  CAM

Aspire is a one-stop CNC software solution developed by Vectric. Featuring relief design, it allows simple and quick conversion from 2D images to 3D relief models. Here's how it works: after importing a 2D image, the software assigns a height difference to the image based on the shade of color to create a 3D relief model. The darker the color, the smaller the corresponding Z-axis height value, and the deeper the carving. For this type of conversion, a grayscale image works best. You can also start with a sketch and expand it into a 3D model step by step by operating manually.

Aspire offers a set of handy tools and a rich library of resources for relief models. You can use filters to remove the noise in the image to create a smoother surface, or manually increase the Z-axis carving depth to further spotlight its three-dimensionality. What's more, the software comes with hundreds of free 2D graphics and 3D relief models to add to your creations.

Support for 4-axis CNC carving is another bonus. You can either design your own 4-axis models or import third-party models. Aspire's rotary job setup and auto-wrapped simulation allow you to visualize your job. Combined with Snapmaker Rotary Module, you're ready to create in a new dimension.

Cases made with Snapmaker Rotary Module

After modeling, the next step is to turn your model into commands that will instruct your CNC machine on how to move, which is also within the cover of Aspire. Aspire is capable of calculating 3D roughing and finishing toolpaths to accurately carve out your model, saving the trouble of using another CAM (computer-aided machining) software.

It's recommended to try out the built-in cases in the trial edition before purchasing. You can find tutorial videos for the cases on their official website. There are also many useful videos made by Aspire users, such as the one by Roger Webb, demonstrating the whole process of making a relief plaque from importing a grayscale image to setting toolpaths.

Carveco Maker

Price: $15/month or $180/year (By subscription)

Supported System: Windows

Highlights: Diverse relief editing tools, Broad range of supported file types, Integrated CAM

You may not have heard of Carveco, but you're probably familiar with ArtCAM, one of the oldest software devoted to CNC. In fact, ArtCAM is the predecessor of Carveco. The software was acquired by Autodesk and then discontinued in 2018; that's when Carveco Ltd. was formed with the purpose of delivering continuity of access and service of ArtCAM. Carveco Maker is the elementary variant of the Carveco software range.

Just like ArtCAM, Carveco Maker is powerful and easy to use, making it popular among woodworkers, sculptors and makers. Besides the regular 2D sketch design and 3D modeling tools, it also includes multiple features customized for relief models, such as conversion from grayscale or vector image to relief, embossing STL model to relief, one-click smoothing of relief, and more. You get to control the final presentation and fineness of the finished product at your own pace. Its relief clipart library contains more than 600 exquisite relief models, all free to use in your CNC projects.

Carveco Maker's Relief Clipart Library

Carveco Maker works easily with different types of graphics, 3D models, and CAD (computer-aided design) files. Integrated CAM is also one of its strong suits, enabling choices over machining strategies, tool configuration, toolpath generation, and real-time simulation of the final look of your design.

The Carveco team has produced a series of well-made instructional videos covering key tools and features such as Reliefs from Images. In addition, ArtCAM's existing large user base and tutorial videos are also available resources for Carveco Maker since the two pieces of software are basically the same. Carveco does not offer a trial version but a 14-day money back guarantee on the software is available.

ZBrush

Price: $39.95/month, $179.9/6 months, or $895/perpetual

Supported System: Windows, macOS

Highlights: Digital sculpting, Modeling with brushes, Intuitive operation

ZBrush is a leading software package in digital sculpting software, endeared to film studios, game developers, and illustrators globally. One of the major games made with ZBrush is Assassin's Creed. As the name suggests, digital sculpting is like sculpting some digitized clay through manipulating geometric shapes by pushing, pinching, chiseling and slicing with brushes. Compared to traditional 3D modeling, its operating logic is far more intuitive, reproducing the natural feeling of working with a real-life object.

It is ideal for creating detailed surface models with sophisticated and irregular shapes, powerful in presenting realistic shadows, textures, and creases.

When used for CNC modeling, ZBrush is competent in both creating 3D models from scratch and collaborating with other modeling software to add more details to your relief models, such as softening joints, adjusting partial height difference, adding textures, etc. The software is also great in real-time rendering that provides instant feedback. However, to generate toolpaths and G-codes, you need to use plug-ins or import your model into CAM software.

Plentiful sculpting brushes in ZBrush

Thanks to its intuitive logic, ZBrush is easy to get started, and tutorial videos abound. Its trial version has no restriction on features, which lasts 30 days.

Blender

Price: Free

Supported System: Windows, macOS, Linux

Highlights: Open source, Cross-platform, Free interface layout, Integrated digital sculpting

Blender is open source software for all platforms, providing 3D creation pipelines from modeling, rigging, animation, simulation, rendering, to video editing. As the only mainstream modeling software that is free for life, it is a public project hosted by the Blender Foundation, with the mission to bring 3D technology as tools in the hands of artists everywhere in the world.

Beyond polygon modeling, Blender also integrates digital sculpting, empowering fast and free detailing using brushes. Though not comparable to ZBrush in this regard, it is qualified. As with ZBrush, the generation of toolpaths and G-code requires additional CAM plug-ins or software since it does not specialize in CNC.

Sculpting brushes in Blender

A typical workflow in CNC relief modeling is to import a 2D image, trace the profile with polygons, expand it into a 3D model by operations like stretching, and then smooth the edges and corners with subdivision tools, including sculpting brushes. You can find many related videos on YouTube, such as Decoration Modeling in Blender 2.9 Part 1.

Being free and open source does not equate to a lack of support resources, at least not with Blender. Donations from users, developers, and companies keep the foundation and their official technical team running. Also, Blender's growing community is very helpful and ready to come to your aid when in trouble.

Summary & Next Up

This article introduces four pieces of artistic relief modeling software: Aspire and Carveco Maker, which specialize in CNC and excel at relief modeling with CAM tools included; and ZBrush and Blender, which allow users to create or optimize relief models through digital sculpting.

Limited by length, this article breaks into two parts and this is the 1^st part. In the next part, we will introduce Fusion 360, FreeCAD, SolidWorks, and SketchUp for solid modeling.

Disclaimer

Snapmaker recommends the software and videos to you in no particular order and for resource-sharing purposes only.

Snapmaker does not in any way endorse, control, or assume responsibility for the content, views hosted on, and services provided by the developers of the software or individuals.

Hey there, Maker!

You probably already know that makers' world is full of possibilities. On top of that, as the owner of the Snapmaker 3-in-1 3D Printer, with its three interchangeable functions – 3D printing, laser engraving and cutting, and CNC carving – you're empowered with more than one key to unlock the door from imagination to reality.

So, what do you want to create with your Snapmaker CNC Module?

Here are 11 resources websites that will inspire you and provide access to model files, complemented by a series of tutorial videos. Hopefully, this article will help you in taking the first stride.

To begin with, let's go through some basic concepts of CNC machining.

What is CNC machining?

CNC stands for "Computer Numerical Control". CNC machining is a common subtractive manufacturing technology. The process involves removing material from a solid workpiece with cutting tools to achieve the desired shape. Compared to 3D printing, aka additive manufacturing, CNC machining is fundamentally different since it chips material off a blank workpiece instead of adding material to build a part.

Cases made with Snapmaker CNC Module & Rotary Module

What can you do with a CNC machine?

CNC machining can work with a wide range of materials, including plastic, wood, jade, and metal. Technically, you can even build a house through CNC machining with quite some assembling, not to mention toy cars, ukulele, PCB…

Next, let's look at the workflow of CNC carving. Typically, it takes three steps to turn an idea into a finished product:

1. Obtain a model, either by modeling yourself or downloading from model repositories.
2. Turn the model file into a G-code using CAM software (such as Snapmaker Luban and Fusion 360). The G-code will instruct the machine on how to move.
3. Export the G-code to your CNC machine. Start carving on your machine and then wait for your job to be done.

Now that you've recognized what a CNC machine can do and how it works, let's get down to the gist. In the following CNC resources websites, you can indulge in inspiring ideas from all over the world or directly download model files and carve them out.

CNC Resources Websites

 On the 3D model files provided in the following websites, except for those specified with compatibility of CNC machines, take care in identifying whether a particular model is suitable for CNC carving.

Thingiverse

Being one of the world's largest and most active 3D model file repositories, Thingiverse boasts three million users and over two million models. From regular household items, ACG character figures to mind-blowing gadgets, there's something for everyone. While models for 3D printing predominate, it's not hard to find models for CNC carving.

In this community, you can also follow people from all walks of life. If you're interested in CNC woodcarving, ZenziWerken is definitely one of the must-see accounts. It was created by Daniel, a German who loves woodworking. He has been sharing hundreds of woodworking cases designed and made all by himself over the years for free. Each case is exquisite and practical, with detailed instructions.

Since you can 3D print a 3D printer, be noted that if you simply type "CNC models" in the search bar, the results will mostly be parts for CNC machines. This might often be the case with the following websites as well. Therefore, it is best to search with specific keywords, such as "CNC toy cars". Thingiverse's search filters support only a few categories, which makes the right keywords even more critical.

GrabCAD

GrabCAD has more than 9 million users and nearly 5 million model files, all available for free download. The site focuses mainly on models for specialized fields such as automobile, mechanics, architecture, and industrial designs, distinguishing GrabCad from other 3D model repositories. However, you can also find numerous models suitable for CNC carving. For example, the keyword "chess" will return some nice matches.

In addition to filtering by model category, GrabCad's search filters also support specifying file format and the software used to generate the model. To locate the model you need quickly, use precise keywords combined with appropriate filter criteria.

MyMiniFactory

MyMiniFactory is one of the most popular 3D model marketplaces with more than 160,000 models. Although not known for its volume, many of the models come from professional designers, and the average quality is excellent. All of the models have been tested by the community to ensure that they can be used for 3D printing, and some of them are also compatible with CNC milling.

MyMiniFactory focuses on paid models from art and pop culture fields such as games, anime and movies. If you're a pro in designing or modeling, this is a great place to cash in on your talent.

MyMiniFactory also provides a small selection of free models. The site highlights easy-to-use search filters, which allow you to refine the results by category, pricing and complexity of the models, as well as the model of the 3D printer used. A direct search for "CNC" returns less than ideal results, and it is best to enter more specific keywords, such as "relief".

Cults

Cults is another designer-rich 3D model repository featuring delicate models. The site has over 3 million users and close to 420,000 models. Both paid and free models are available. If you're good at creating 3D models, you can upload your work to Cults and price it in just a few steps.

Surprisingly, searching directly for "CNC" on Cults leads to quite a few models designed for CNC carving. A more precise keyword will undoubtedly return more satisfactory results, though. On an account called "STLFILESFREE", you can find dozens of beautiful models for wood relief carving, all for free.

TurboSquid

TurboSquid models are used by game developers, architects, visual effects studios, advertisers, and creative professionals around the world. You've probably seen TurboSquid models hundreds of times and didn't know it. A majority of the one million models uploaded here are priced.

Most of the models on the site are not for 3D printing or CNC processing, but you can filter by STL format and enter specific keywords, such as "relief". You can also filter out free models, although the results may be numbered.

Instructables

Unlike the model repositories introduced above, Instructables is a community where DIYers share their creations. Each case contains detailed step-by-step instructions, accompanied by pictures, animations and videos; each step allows other users to add hints or ask questions, allowing sufficient interactions.

From electronics, mechanics, woodworking to cooking, Instructables offers cases of just about anything. On the Workshop subpage, there are separate sections for 3D printing, laser cutting and CNC. The CNC section is definitely a mine of information for experienced CNC players. In addition, the site has a Teachers section, thoughtfully divided by grade level, to encourage teachers to apply DIY cases in their classes. Search directly for "CNC" plus keywords, such as "CNC toys", and you'll likely find some fascinating results. Not every case comes with ready model files, but all cases are available as a packaged PDF file for download.

Maker Union

Maker Union supplies free DXF files of high quality with a simple and easy-to-use interface. DXF is a vector image format that is well adapted to CNC machining, which acts as 2D patterns that guide your machine on where to cut. Processing DXF file with CNC machines will not leave black edges as opposed to laser engravers. The finished products are perfect for decoration.

The site features theme-based display of files, where a set of beautiful DXF files can be downloaded as a package in a click. Although the number of themes is just over 240, there are on average 6–8 files under each theme, all of which are ready-to-cut for CNC machines. Maker Union supports keyword search of themes, and you can choose to display the search results by popularity, release date, etc.

MakeCNC

MakeCNC offers only paid models of high quality, covering categories such as architecture, vehicles, ships, mazes, animals with a total of more than 1,400 models. Each model consists of a set of vector graphics that can be used directly for CNC machining. Assembly is usually required, and a detailed assembly manual is hence included in the files downloaded. While cutting a single vector graphic poses little challenge, milling complex curved surfaces and carving assembly parts do require more experience in CNC machining.

STLFinder

As you can tell by its name, STLFinder is a search engine for 3D models in STL format. Thingiverse, GrabCAD and MyMiniFactory are some of the major 3D model libraries included in its index. The total number of models indexed is huge, with 159,316 results returned for the keyword "wall art" alone. It only supports filtering by paid or free models.

Etsy

Etsy is a marketplace focusing on handmade items and craft supplies. Apart from physical goods, there are also paid models under a broad range of categories, including home decor, toys, art, as well as tools; both 3D models and 2D patterns are available. Here you get to see buyers' reviews and photos of finished products on the page of each model file. You can also open your own store on Etsy and price your creations.

Go straight for "CNC file" in the search bar, and you'll find hundreds of 3D models for CNC machining, ranging from woodcut Star Wars calendar to world map relief. The site supports filtering by keyword match, price range, release date, etc. In addition, the search bar provides access to recently viewed items.

Craftsmanspace

Craftsmanspace comprises a wealth of free 3D models and 2D patterns. In addition to the two sections dedicated to model files, the Free projects section collects cases uploaded by users along with instructional PDF files. The site also has a Knowledge section full of information, including a comprehensive introduction to woodworking joints completed by illustrations and terminologies.

Pinterest

Pinterest is one of the largest image-sharing platforms in the world. Thanks to its volume, searching with CNC-related keywords, such as "CNC cutting design", returns a considerable number of results, including many masterpieces. Browsing through the designs can be a great source of inspiration. Note that only images of finished products are available here rather than source files for CNC machining.

CNC Tutorial Videos

Whether it's to stimulate your own thinking with others' designs or provide model files that your CNC machine can work with, we hope the above websites have helped you in leaping from ideas to models.  

Now, let's proceed to turn models into solid parts. Here are several tutorial videos on using Snapmaker CNC Modules and software, namely the Snapmaker Luban and Fusion 360.

Tutorial Videos by Snapmaker

Snapmaker 2.0: How to Use the CNC Function

The Snapmaker 2.0 comes with an ER11 collet, an MDF wasteboard, and dust-resistant Linear Modules. The CNC Module is easy to use and supports various types of materials. Check out this step-by-step tutorial on Snapmaker 2.0 CNC function and give it a shot.

How to Use CNC Function with Rotary Module

Follow along this video to see an entire 4th-axis CNC machining process with the Rotary Module. We've added new features of Origin Assistant and Bit Assistant to the Touchscreen and realized full support in Snapmaker Luban. 

Intro to Snapmaker Luban 4.0 for 3-axis CNC Carving & Intro to Snapmaker Luban 4.0 for 4-axis CNC Carving

Learn how to use the 3-axis and 4-axis CNC with Snapmaker Luban 4.0 with a brand new interface, improved workflow, and some useful newly added features.

Fusion 360 CAD & CAM Tutorial for CNC Beginners [Snapmaker Academy]

Follow this video to design a 3D model in Fusion 360 and carve it out with your Snapmaker. The whole process could be much easier than you would have expected.

Tutorial Videos by Users

Snapmaker Tool Changes: Fusion 360 3D Relief Milling

Rodney Shank made this video for anyone who wants to know how to mill a relief on wood using Fusion 360 and the Snapmaker 2.0. In this video, you will be guided through the whole process step by step, including changing tools from rough to finish carving.

4 Axis CNC Machining with Snapmaker 2.0
In this video, Nikodem Bartnik tests and reviews the Rotary Module of Snapmaker 2.0. He succeeded in milling some cool stuff like SpaceX model out of epoxy tooling material and wood while failed with aluminum.

Snapmaker 2.0 - E04 - Using the CNC

In this project of Koka-Bora Creations, the author demonstrates the process of carving an SVG image onto a piece of wood relief using Snapmaker 2.0. In addition to the practical steps, he also explains how CNC relief works, the pros of working with SVG greyscale images, and some other principles.

Armed with the above resources, you're well-prepared to try it out now. Just get your Snapmaker CNC Module going and bring your creative sparks to life!

In the future, Snapmaker Academy will continue to provide you with helpful CNC resources and knowledge, so STAY TUNED!

If you are interested in other topics of 3D printing, feel free to contact us at support@snapmaker.com, or leave your message in our community.

Disclaimer

Snapmaker recommends the websites and videos to you in no particular order and for resource-sharing purposes only.

Snapmaker does not in any way endorse, control, or assume responsibility for the content, views hosted on, and services provided by these websites or individuals.