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The Definitive Guide to Laser Engraving and Cutting with the Snapmaker
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  • Mark Nuttall

    Great article, can you do this as a pdf file so it is downloadable it can then be used as a quick reference guide.?

  • Zero Zhao

    Hello, we can't do this as a pdf file but you can save the online article to PDF file. Here is the instructions:

  • Aaron (Sarwiz)

    First, i am not paying for a convertor. You should provide this guide in PDF frmat for download as support. All u geeky people and you want us to pay more for support. Put this guide in PDF and do it soon. You have no other manuals for the laser cutter, and i am regretting my purchase. Even trying to copy and paste this into word or open office does not work. Why do you have to have your website so locked out like this. novapdf is not free. apparently you dont friggin care.


  • Bjorn Birkeland

    It is not hard to convert this to PDF for free, a simple search would help you a lot on most search engines. Just type "How to save a web page "operating system of choice""


    This might help you:

    Open it in Google Chrome. This works on both Mac, Linux and Windows. 

    Choose "File -> print -> Save as PDF"

    If you have a Mac you can print to PDF from any browser.

    From safari you can choose "File -> Share as PDF".

    On Ubuntu you can save it as PDF by choosing "Print to".

    On Windows 10 you can save as PDF by choosing "Print to".

    On IOS you can choose the share symbol, choose print - when you see the preview of the page you just zoom on the page in preview and then you have the PDF ready to be saved. You can also just choose share symbol and choose "make PDF". 

    I have no idea how to do this on Android, but quite sure it is easy. 

    You can also save the link as a bookmark to the page for easy refinding.

  • Mark Nuttall

    For Android. Print file. And chose to print as a
    PDF.. . Works on Samsung S8+. Saved all the instructions files as PDF's using that.

  • Tomer Schwartz

    here you go, download the pdf here:

  • John Holcomb

    Thank you so much for this article! 

    One adjustment I'd suggest for plywood engraving with the 1600mw Laser (on the Snapmaker 1, but I'd assume would be true for version 2):

    For Greyscale engraving, 100% is too much, even with dwell time of only 5ms. It burns too much on each dot. I found that 50% power works much better, with 5ms dwell time.

  • Edudavidne

    After finding this helpful resource I copied the images with the 1600mW settings of the Laser Engraving and cutting guide, pasted them into a document, resized them so each material type fit on its own page and then turned the document into a PDF.  I plan to keep the guide in a helpful file for sharing with others.  You can find the shared PDF file here:

    or here is the shared folder that contains the document and will hopefully have other resources over time:

    I just received my new Snapmaker A350 and I plan to share anything I find helpful that isn't already in a helpful shared location so if anyone has other items they think may be helpful to the community that they want to shre with me feel free to send it to me and I will add it to the folder.  Here is to everyone sharing their creativity with each other.

  • David M

    Very helpful article! But I'm a newbie and confused as to what the "/" means on some of the settings. For instance some of the Work Speed settings show / instead of a number.  What would the work speed be on these?



  • John Holcomb

    @David M

    Those just mean there is nothing to set, or there are no other settings to consider.

  • David M

    Thanks for the reply. You mean set to zero? Or that it makes no difference what you put there?

    I don't think it will let me select zero in Luban. 

  • John Holcomb

    More like "leave at default" or "setting isn't on the page". Actually, I can see why you might be confused in relation to the "Work Speed" column, because it's really the "Jog Speed" that's not available.

    Ugh, better for me to show you than to try to explain it... 

    Notice the differences in the two shots, based on the "Movement Mode" setting:

    When set to Dot, "Jog Speed" becomes "Work Speed", and "Work Speed" becomes "Dwell Time". In truth, it's really that the "Work Speed" setting IS THE SAME AS "Jog Speed".

    Hopefully that helps you along your way. 

  • David M

    Ah! Thanks!

  • Christophe Maura


    Je viens de recevoir l'A350 et d'initialiser le laser pour la première fois. Malheureusement aucune marque de calibrage de graduation n'apparait sur le contreplaqué. Je l'ai pourtant initialiser en hauteur (jusqu'à toucher le support à graver) mais en mode gravure je vois la lumière bleu qui se déplace sans pour autant avoir d'effet sur le contreplaqué...

    Quelqu'un peut il venir à mon aide svp?

    Merci d'avance

    Christophe M

  • Kurt Singstad

    I've encountered some problems with the settings:

    1)  for cutting 3mm Cardboard the Guide recommends 2 passes at 130mm/min - both passes at the same pass depth.  This does not make sense to me, maybe someone could explain why this is the best setting?

    I'm not able to cut through 3mm ordinary corrucated cardboard using these settings.  It is a little better when I use 1.5 or 2 mm pass depth, but I still does not cut through.  3 passes does the trick, with 1mm pass depth.


    2)  Cutting the thin bass plywood material, 1.5 mm is a real nightmare.  The recommended setting is 1 pass at 75 mm/min, but I'm only able to cut halfway through the wood with these settings. (I've also tested  3 passes at 120 and even 5 passes at 180, but still only some uneven burn marks on the back side of the wood.)

    Calibration is sometimes a bit frustratring, because the camera never recognizes the paralell lines for the automatic calibration, and the larger wooden sheets (30x30 cm) never stays completely even.

  • Zach Coker

    Hey Kurt,

    I'm not sure if you mean the 1.5mm ply pieces that could be ordered with the Snapmaker or something else, but so far after messing around a bit I've had minimal issues cutting through the thin 1.5mm bass ply. I started with some small modifications to the gift-box demo settings, and have tried a few different things from there (meaning I sped it up just a tiny bit).

    So far, for the best results on relatively complex designs (sharper angles on turns etc), I've used Vector mode with a jog speed of 3,000 mm/min, work speed of 180-210 mm/min and 2 passes at 0.6mm pass depth and fixed power at 100%. (I've never failed a cut with these sheets at 180mm/min with two passes, but that could just be that I've gotten lucky).

    To your comment about the camera calibration, I agree completely. It's an iffy-at-best implementation for actual presentation. I've come to accept that my vertical image stitching will look pretty good, but I've always got empty space between the horizontals, no matter what I do, until I click "accept" and it displays the background image on the Luban workspace. Also, the 1.5mm ply is insanely thin and has a lot of warping/flex. There's not much we can do about that other than use the rubber pin-downs provided (or use small weights as long as they stay out of the tool path.

    Let us know the specific settings you're trying with the cuts - maybe we can find out what isn't working, and help any others who are also having the same issues.

  • Paleo Vinlander

    when you engrave on acrylic do you leave the protective paper on or off?


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