3D Printing

1 Set Up for First Use

Read the product Quick Start Guide (https://snapmaker.com/product/snapmaker-2/downloads) to check the included parts, assemble the machine, and set up the machine for the first use. You can also watch the video tutorials on our website (https://support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/categories/360001781913-Snapmaker-2-0) to learn how to use the machine.

2 3D Printing Workflow

Calibrate Heated Bed
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Load Filament
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Prepare File
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Generate G-code
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Transfer G-code File to Machine
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Start Printing
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Remove Print

3 Calibrate Heated Bed

A smooth and horizontal heated bed is of crucial importance in the printing quality. Each time you switch the machine from laser engraver or CNC carver to a 3D printer, or when there is poor adhesion for the first layer of the printing, you are suggested to recalibrate the heated bed.

The calibration includes 2 steps: Leveling the Heated Bed and Setting the Z Offset.
Snapmaker 2.0 3D Printer features an Auto-leveling procedure. You can start it on the touchscreen by swiping left on the initial page to enter the main interface, tapping Calibration, and tapping START. The 3D printing module will measure the distance between the nozzle and the heated bed at specific points.

When the auto-leveling completes, you need to adjust the Z offset: Place the calibration card or a piece of paper under the nozzle, tap the Up and Down buttons to fine-tune the Z Offset until you feel a slight resistance when pulling out the paper, and see a fold when pushing forward. When you finish calibrating, tap Save to save the changes.

4 Change Filament

Snapmaker 2.0 3D Printers support automatic and manual filament loading / unloading.

4.1 Automatic Loading / Unloading

Taking PLA as an example. Hang the PLA filament on the filament holder. Cut the curved end of the filament with the diagonal pliers, and insert the filament into the 3D printing module. Enter the Controls page, choose Nozzle tab, and the nozzle will be heated to the preset temperature. Next, tap Load and gently push the filament into the 3D printing module until you feel the motor pulling the filament in. Filament squeezed out of the nozzle means a successful loading. Please clean the nozzle with the tweezer.
If there is no filament coming out, keep pushing on the filament and tap Load till you feel the filament pulled in again and see the filament coming out. Exit the Controls page, and swipe right to enter the initial page where you can check the current nozzle temperature.

4.2 Manual Loading / Unloading

Tap Controls -> Nozzle and slide the scale bar to set the target temperature (200 ℃ by default). When the heating completes, press the front cover and then toggle the button to open the front cover. Direct the filament at the feed hole and push it in manually until you see the filament coming out. Press the front cover and then toggle the button to close the front cover. Exit the Controls page, and swipe right to enter the initial page where you can check the current nozzle temperature.
Warning: Do not touch the nozzle when it’s at high temperature.

5 Prepare Files

Design: You can design a 3D model using TinkerCAD, SketchUp, Fusion 360, or other 3D modeling software.
3D Scan: You can get a 3D model of a physical object with a 3D scanner.
Download: You can find various free and high-quality 3D models online. For example, on thingiverse.com and myminifactory.com.

6 Generate G-Code

6.1 Interface Overview

1. You can access to the starter projects from the gallery .
2. Upload your own models for printing.
3. Move, scale, and rotate the selected model.
4. Material settings.
5. Print quality / speed settings.
6. Right-click on the model to open a setting menu.
7. Slice the model to generate the G-Code file.
8. Export the G-Code file.

6.2 Printing with Adhesion Structure (Brim / Raft / Skirt)

Brim, Raft, and Skirt are detachable structures for minimizing the problem of object adherence to the heated bed.
To set the adhesion structure, enter the 3D Printing G-code Generator, click Customize under the Printing Settings, select one mode as a basis, and click Plus button to create your own profile. Then, choose the adhesion type you need in the drop-down list.

Brim adds a single layer flat area around the base of your model to prevent warping. When to use a brim:
Warping: A brim can help prevent warping and is therefore recommended to be used while printing with materials like ABS filament.
Greater Bed Adhesion: Similarly to 3D printing rafts, brims help to improve bed adhesion.
Added Precaution: As a safety measure, brims can be added to any print that needs strong bed adhesion. While not especially required for printing with filaments like PLA, they still make prints easier to remove. In that way, users can add brims as an added safety precaution.

Raft adds a thick grid with a roof below the model. When to use a raft:
Warping: 3D printing a raft while working with ABS filament helps to prevent the print from warping.
Greater Bed Adhesion: 3D printing a raft will also help to achieve better bed adhesion and act as a precaution against failure.
Tiny Legs: Suppose a print has tiny legs at the bottom, upon which a heavy structure is built. In such cases it is recommended to build a raft as a safety precaution against failure.

Skirt is a line (or multiple lines) printed around the model, but not connected to the model. The skirt is extruded on the heated bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament. Observing the skirt also allows you to detect and adjust any leveling or adhesion issues before the actual model begins printing.

6.3 Printing with Support Structure

When your model has an overhang or a bridge that is not supported by anything below, you may need to use support structures to 3D print it.
To set the support structure, enter the 3D Printing G-code Generator, click Customize under the Printing Settings, select one mode as a basis, and click Plus button to create your own profile. Then, tick the Generate Support box and set the support pattern you need in the drop-down list.

Please note that not all overhangs need to be supported. If an overhang tilts at an angle less than 40 degrees from the vertical, then you may be able to print that overhang without using 3D printing support structures. You can set the Support Overhang Angle to determine the threshold value for adding support structures or not, which is 50° by default.
Generally, if a bridge is less than 5mm in length, the printer may be able to print it without requiring 3D printing support structures. However, if the bridge is longer than 5mm, you need to add 3D printing support structures.
The default Support Pattern is Zig Zag that is relatively easy to remove. You can choose other support patterns as needed, too.

6.4 Multi-Model Printing

The multi-model printing feature can save you a lot of setup time when printing with multiple small objects. Imagine that you are going to print dozens of LEGO bricks, you can make it in one operation instead of setting models and removing them from the plate for dozens of times.
Upload multiple files, and then adjust the positions of the models to ensure that their printing won’t interfere each other.

7 Transfer G-code File to Machine

7.1 Online Printing

7.1.1 Transfer G-code File via Wi-Fi

1. If the machine is not yet connected to Wi-Fi, please select Settings in the main menu, tap Wi-Fi and connect to your network.

2. Before you connect your computer to the machine, make sure both the computer and the machine have connected to the same Wi-Fi. Open Snapmaker Luban and go to Workspace -> Connection -> Select Wi-Fi -> Click -> Select your device -> Click Open -> Tap Yes on the touchscreen.

3. Go to 3D Printing G-code Generator and select Load G-code to Workspace to load the generated G-code to Workspace.

4. When everything is ready, click to start printing.

Note 1: The computer must be connected to the machine via Wi-Fi throughout the process.

Note 2: If you run into the issue of poor adhesion, you can try adjusting the Z Offset.

Note 3: You can change the settings for Work Speed, Nozzle Temperature and Heated Bed Temperature during the printing process.

7.1.2 Transfer G-code File via USB Cable

1. Connect the machine and the computer with the provided USB cable.

2. Open Snapmaker Luban and enter the Workspace -> Connection -> Select Serial Port -> Click -> Select the port -> Click Open.

Note: If you can’t find the usable port, moreover your computer is equipped with the latest version of Mac OS Catalina, please download and install the driver at https://snapmaker.com/product/snapmaker-2/downloads.

3. Enter the 3D Printing G-code Generator and click Load G-code to Workspace to send the generated G-code to the Workspace.

4. When everything is ready, click to start printing.

Note: The computer must be connected to the machine throughout the process.

7.2 Offline Printing

7.2.1 Transfer G-code File via Wi-Fi

1. If the machine is not connected to Wi-Fi network, please tap Settings at the main interface, enter the Wi-Fi page and link it to your Wi-Fi.

2. Before you connect your computer to the machine, make sure both the computer and the machine have connected to the same Wi-Fi. Open Snapmaker Luban and enter the Workspace -> Connection -> Select Wi-Fi -> Click -> Select your machine -> Click Open -> Tap Yes on the touchscreen.

3. Enter the 3D Printing G-code Generator and click Load G-code to Workspace to send the generated G-code to the Workspace.

4. Click Send via Wi-Fi in the Workspace .

5. When the G-code file is received, tap Yes on the touchscreen to enter the preview page.
Note: File sent by Wi-Fi can be found on the touchscreen: Files > Local.

7.2.2 Transfer G-code File via USB Disk

1. Enter the 3D Printing G-code Generator and click Export G-code to file to save the generated G-code to your USB disk.
Note: G-code file should be saved with a “.gcode” suffix.

2. Insert the USB disk into the controller.

3. Tap Files -> USB on the touchscreen interface, open the saved G-code file and enter preview page.

8 Remove Print

When the printing completes, wait until the temperatures of the nozzle and heated bed drop to the normal level. Detach the print sheet, and bend it slightly outward to remove the print. In the case of tiny print, you can also insert the palette knife between the print sheet and the print, pry it gently to complete your removement.

9 Common Operations

9.1 Recover Print

Snapmaker 2.0 3D Printers support filament runout recovery and power-loss recovery.

9.1.1 Filament Runout Recovery

When the filament has run out, the printer equipped with a filament runout sensor will save the printing status, lift up the printing module to avoid print damage caused by the hot nozzle, and notify you on the touchscreen. You need to feed in new filament to resume printing or cancel printing following the touchscreen guide. If you need to resume printing, tap Ready to Load when new filament is ready, and refer to 4 Change Filament for detailed operating instructions.

9.1.2 Power-Loss Recovery

When automatically detecting power-loss in the printing process, the machine will save the printing status, lift up the printing module to avoid print damage caused by the hot nozzle, and notify you on the touchscreen. You can resume printing or cancel printing following the touchscreen guide. If you need to resume the current printing task, tap Recover.